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Fashion: Can it be a force for good?

Wednesday, 9 April 2014 00:00 -     - {{hitsCtrl.values.hits}}

AOD Appointed as Country Coordinator for Global Fashion Revolution Day On 24 April 2013, 1,133 people were killed and many more were injured when the Rana Plaza factory complex collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh due to its adverse conditions. The strain it caused the whole fashion supply chain is still felt today. The Fashion Revolution Day (FRD), marking the one year anniversary of this tragedy, goes beyond a traditional commemoration limited to a minute of silence, and tries to address the root of the problem which is, the lack of transparency and interest in fashion manufacturing origins. FRD is taking a stance to stop fashion from committing more crimes and to promote guilt-free clothing by creating true awareness on the importance of people questioning where their clothes come from. This international fashion movement is sweeping across the world and invited to lead Sri Lanka into this is Sri Lanka’s dynamic design campus AOD. Following is an interview with AOD International Design Campus Founder and Managing Director Linda Speldewinde: "Join the FRD Sri Lanka event under ‘EVENTS’ of the official AOD Facebook page www.facebook.com/Aodsrilanka" Q: Why Fashion Revolution Day? A: Because enough is enough. We lost over 1,000 lives in just few minutes because we never bothered to ask where our clothes were made. Fashion Revolution Day (FRD) provides an organised, worldwide platform for those who believe that it’s high time for action and that we need to ask questions, raise standards for fashion manufacturing, and set an a world-wide example of what ‘better’ looks like. This is looking for a huge change – one that can save lives. Q: Why is this relevant to Sri Lanka? A: Half the problems that the fashion world has is around manufacturing, but if you look at the current international platforms and discussions most of the voice is from the retail sector of fashion. So, the world needs a strong and exemplary fashion manufacturing voice. Now, something that many people overlook is that Sri Lanka’s largest export earner is our fashion manufacturing industry and our manufacturing industry is one that we can truly boast about. Through the award-winning ‘garments-without-guilt’ campaign that was a true display of what we do here in SL, our industry has played a pioneering role in the sustainable manufacturing agenda globally from a time when it was still a secondary topic. So, Sri Lanka definitely has the voice to represent fashion manufacturing in a global context. But, it’s also more than that; we can set an example for how manufacturing should be. Our fashion manufacturing industry has the first and the highest number of green fashion manufacturing plants, the women behind our needles are truly empowered by their careers, we can proudly say that we don’t employ child labour and SL apparel industry has successfully taken the factory to the village to create more jobs and opportunities. Q: What can Sri Lanka contribute to this global movement? A: Two things. As explained earlier, we have a very strong voice as manufacturers. We need to make sure it’s heard and more importantly, share our methods and achievements which we know will make a better change in this world. We have a growing consumer base that is very conscious of what they wear and where they come from. Already, our educated fashion consumer who shops globally, knows better than to shop at Primark. Because this is a new, young and growing consumer base, we have a better chance of building them as a primarily ethically buying market. Q: How can Sri Lanka push ethical fashion consumerism? A: Being a nation that has many ethically manufacturing plants and educators such as AOD interested in pursuing the ethical aspect of design education and beyond, we have the resources and the examples to deliver this education to the masses. I think this is an important contribution Sri Lanka can make for FRD. The other aspect is the many possibilities for ethical brands. Because we have a huge industry, designers have the possibility to up-cycle and collaborate with big-scale manufacturing to produce ethically made clothing. The textiles we produce are also unique due to traditional craft artisan collaboration with designers and they have a huge demand from local consumers. These are all the trends we can see coming out in the fashion consumer base here and it holds a lot of promise to establish an educated, ethically conscious consumer. Q: Before this, have you been involved in pushing sustainability globally? A: Yes, definitely. The invitation to lead the Sri Lankan voice for FRD didn’t just come to AOD. With great help from our fashion manufacturing industry, the supply chain and the government, we have played a huge role in leading a global discussion on ethical fashion from Sri Lanka. The South Asian Sustainable Fashion Summit held annually during Sri Lanka Design Festival organised by AOD brings in the most influential global voices in ethical fashion and facilitates a dialogue between them and our industry. This has been instrumental in spreading the word about all the good work we do here. Similarly, the annual Sustainable fashion runway hosted by Sri Lanka Design Festival gives sustainable designers in SL, a powerful, international platform to showcase what they do and draws the attention of the fashion buyers across the world. So, yes, we have been involved in this movement for a while, therefore organising the Fashion Revolution Day in Sri Lanka as part of a bigger global picture, is a continuation of this work. "Through the award-winning ‘garments-without-guilt’ campaign that was a true display of what we do here in Sri Lanka, our industry has played a pioneering role in the sustainable manufacturing agenda globally from a time when it was still a secondary topic. So, Sri Lanka definitely has the voice to represent fashion manufacturing in a global context. But, it’s also more than that; we can set an example for how manufacturing should be Our fashion manufacturing industry has the first and the highest number of green fashion manufacturing plants, the women behind our needles are truly empowered by their careers, we can proudly say that we don’t employ child labour and Sri Lanka’s apparel industry has successfully taken the factory to the village to create more jobs and opportunities For a long time, AOD has worked on creating designers whose core ethos are built around sustainability. What we started off as cultural and sustainability studies as part of a globally relevant curriculum, has now evolved into a wholesome, real and committed aspect of AOD’s design education Fashion revolution is about giving the voice to the consumer. You can’t expect the retailers to change overnight if there is no demand from the consumer. So the consumer has to stop demanding only for a low price and take the leadership to ask the question ‘Who made your clothes?’This means all of us! We need to take this stance now and give a reason for the fashion retailers to buy ethically – AOD International Design Campus Founder and Managing Director Linda Speldewinde:" Q: How is AOD involved with ethical fashion education? A: For a long time, AOD has worked on creating designers whose core ethos are built around sustainability. What we started off as cultural and sustainability studies as part of a globally relevant curriculum, has now evolved into a wholesome, real and committed aspect of AOD’s design education.  Therefore our students go on guided study tours to rural villages to explore traditional and low-tech manufacturing methods at grass-root level and get a taste of the rich resources they have to design sustainably. Then they’re introduced to the high-tech industry where they are challenged to bring in sustainability and the special signature of handcrafted product or textile with design and innovation. Our students have recently developed a range of swimwear made from hand-woven fabric, in collaboration with village artisans and MAS Linea Aqua- this is going into production now. This model where the designer acts as the connection between the village artisan and the high-tech industry has proven to be remarkably successful and we’re seeing a very beautiful and unique relationship developing between AOD, industry and the rural artisan. The outcome is truly remarkable even in a global sense - London Fashion Week recognised this last year when we were invited to lead a group of designers representing Sri Lanka. So the world is starting to notice all the effort we put into creating a generation of designers who think, design, manufacture, sell and live sustainably. Q: What can we do as consumers and how can we engage with FRD Sri Lanka? A: Fashion revolution is about giving the voice to the consumer. You can’t expect the retailers to change overnight if there is no demand from the consumer. So the consumer has to stop demanding only for a low price and take the leadership to ask the question ‘Who made your clothes?’This means all of us! We need to take this stance now and give a reason for the fashion retailers to buy ethically. In this digital age, we can all connect easily. So, you can join our revolution Join us, on the official event page on Facebook and follow the discussion there. On 24 April, which is the one year anniversary of the Rana plaza collapse, AOD students will gather to turn their clothes inside out and find out where their clothes were made. This gesture is to spark a wave of interest in the origin of our clothes. So, you can become part of it by turning your wardrobe inside out and taking a picture of a label belonging to an ethically made garment that you own and post it on our page with the hashtag #fashionrevolutionSL. You’re also welcome to visit us on the day at the AOD pop-up store at Park Street Mews and bring your ethically made garment to be photographed against the official backdrop. This campaign is a movement that will hopefully ignite a passion and a commitment to ethical fashion consumerism from Sri Lanka, to aid the larger global movement. Join FRD Sri Lanka event under ‘Events’ of the official AOD Facebook page www.facebook.com/Aodsrilanka, and check out our country page representing Sri Lanka on official FRD website  fashionrevolution.org/country/sri-lanka/.

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