Learning the ropes of a perfect blend

Students of FoA, University of Peradeniya at  a training session 

Nalin Priyantha 

 Nirodha Jayakody

Gayan Rukmal, a professional barista and a trainer

By Randima Attygalle

With ‘bean to cup’ concept at its heart, Amberly Place Coffee Academy located in Kirulapone, Colombo 5, is the first of its kind in Sri Lanka to be certified by the Tertiary and Vocational Education Commission (TVEC). Offering a globally recognised qualification of a professional barista (a professional who makes specialty coffees) and serves equivalent to NVQ (National Vocational Qualification) Level 3, the Academy has evolved in less than a year since its launch in September 2022. From a batch of just five youngsters, Amberly Place Coffee Academy has trained more than 500 baristas to date.

From rags to riches

Brainchild of Nalin Priyantha of Kiyota Coffee Company Ltd. in Matale, a leading exporter of high-grown pure Arabica Sri Lankan coffee to Japan, Amberly Place Coffee Academy is a model for Sri Lankan skill and entrepreneurship. “A perfect cup of coffee is possible only when the ‘farmer-roaster-barista’ blend is achieved,” says Kiyota Coffee Company’s Chairman and the Managing Director Nalin Priyantha whose coffee has earned him some of country’s top national exports and entrepreneurship awards. 

From his difficult beginnings in the then war-torn Trincomalee, having lost his father at 11 years, Nalin’s story is that of rags to riches. From his humble clothing business, Nalin went on to try his fortune with spices and then moved onto coffee. In 2014 he launched Kiyota Coffee named in honour of Kazuyuki Kiyota who assisted him with his first coffee processing machine for exports. An essentially a self-made man who has now conquered an international market, Nalin’s latest labour of love- Amberly Place Coffee Academy is positioned to equip youngsters with a certified skill of a Barista.

A skill in demand

Amberly Place Coffee Academy which is certified by the Emery School of Coffee in Malaysia (ESC) which is accredited by Specialty Coffee Association or SEA is mandated to equip job-seeking youth with a skill which is sought after worldwide. The qualification is also an ideal solution for unskilled migration. “Today unskilled migration is on the rise and many are stranded in foreign countries as a result. Getting a barista qualification is a smart means of securing a well-paid job. It also assures of a decent part-time job for students who go overseas for further studies,” remarks Nalin who also notes that several professionals including doctors, engineers and lawyers have followed the course successfully in order to secure temporary employment after migrating. 

Coffee is one of the most widely consumed beverages in the world. With our very own coffee variety – Lak Parakum introduced and promoted by the Department of Export Agriculture (DEA) being recognised as one of the top ten Arabica varieties of coffee in the global market, there is renewed hope for Sri Lankan coffee today. The increasing franchise costs that entail imported coffees are also driving many popular coffee houses in Colombo and the suburbs to turn to local blends, some of them which have already tapped a lucrative export market. 

The coffee rust which ended the island’s coffee romance in the British-occupied then Ceylon is given hope for resurgence today. In this context, the demand for skilled baristas even locally cannot be undermined. “It is sad to see many of our youth in their most productive years, turning into three-wheeler drivers. Getting a qualification of this nature will not only guarantee productive employment but better social recognition as well,” remarks Nalin. 

A total knowledge provider

The Academy offers programs at three levels of ‘Foundation’, ‘Junior Barista’, ‘Master Barista’ and ‘Latte Art Bootcamp’. The courses, range from individual training to group training (with two to five participants). The Academy is led by the internationally qualified Principal Trainer Nirodha Jayakody. Armed with 15 years of experience as a barista trainer, Nirodha is also the CEO of the Academy. Trained in multiple SEA-accredited schools including those in Australia and Italy, Nirodha was also among the chief resource persons responsible for the preparation of the NVQ curriculum for Professional Barista qualification. 

Apart from being the first TVEC-certified coffee academy here at home, Amberly Place Coffee Academy is also given the unparalleled edge of being a ‘total knowledge provider’ about the coffee industry, says its CEO. “There is a knowledge gap among coffee growers, exporters and coffee café owners and what our Academy strives is to become a bridge in mitigating this gap. Even in terms of training baristas, we ensure at all times that participants get the bigger picture; of the entire journey from bean to cup.” The training also includes technical know-how on maintenance of coffee machines and understanding how to manage a coffee operation. Soon a coffee café is to be opened at the academy premises to enable more coffee lovers to get a taste of some of country’s premium blends.

Gayan Rukmal who has been a barista at some of the leading coffee cafes in Colombo is also on board with the Amberly Place Coffee Academy as a trainer. “A barista trainer has to fulfil five main knowledge criteria: plantations, green beans, roasting, brewing skills and sensory analysis. At Amberly Place Coffee Academy, I get to optimise these key areas, especially the exposure to roasting different types of beans.” The participants of the course, as Gayan explains have to complete a theory-based exam and a practical exam during which each candidate has to make two cups of lattes, two cups of cappuccinos and two Expressos within 6 minutes. A minimum of 65% should be scored for a candidate to receive the certificate of completion. 

Amidst the aroma of coffee permeating the surroundings, a group of five young girls are busy learning the art of brewing a perfect cup of coffee. Among them is Dinuli Ayathma who is to go to England shortly for her higher studies. “I have always been a lover of coffee myself and getting myself qualified as a barista is a bonus,” says smiling Dinuli who goes onto note that she is now more confident about finding a solid part-time work opportunity during her stay overseas thanks to the training she is receiving at the Amberly Place Coffee Academy. Dinuli who came to know about the Academy through a friend comes twice a week there to complete her course. Thanumi Nalin from Gampaha who was also recommended the place by a mutual contact is to leave for England soon for her studies. Thanumi too considers her investment in the Academy worthwhile giving her a ticket to a globally accepted skill. 

Driven by passion, Dr. Shawn Roche, Consultant Physiotherapist, specialising in pain management who has successfully completed the course at the Academy noted that it was simply an amazing experience. “I’m a foodie who is very much interested in the hospitality sector. Although I have a clinical background, I’m also toying with new ideas such as trialling bottled cold brew and equipping myself with a new skill such as that of a barista will provide me new insights.” The clinician also applauds the trainers at the Amberly Place Coffee Academy for their humility and goodwill extended at all times. “Their caring nature and respect for every student irrespective of their titles or backgrounds simply touched me and I would not hesitate to say that their training is on par with any international training.”

Fruitful collaborations

Amberly Place Coffee Academy which works with some of the leading training schools in the country and agriculture faculties including that of Peradeniya University’s Faculty of Agriculture, also collaborates with the Industrial Development Board (IDB), National Enterprise Development Authority (NEDA), and National Apprentice and Industrial Training Authority (NAITA). TVEC Deputy Director General Dr. Janaka Jayalath maintains that a new NVQ qualification such as Professional Barista is an index to the youth aspirations in the country. “It is imperative that we help match our curricula to what is attractive to youth today. What was envisioned by the Amberly Place Coffee Academy sets precedent to many more such progressive ventures to follow,” notes Dr. Jayalath who goes onto say that TVEC has plans underway to expand the Professional Barista qualification to NVQ Level 4.

The Plantation Society of Peradeniya University’s Faculty of Agriculture (FoA) has facilitated two programs for its students collaborating with the Amberly Place Coffee Academy. The workshops brought together the academic staff of the FoA, representatives of the Academy and a well-experienced barista trainer Paul Van Der Hulst from the Netherlands who shared his expertise on ‘coffee cupping’ and ‘flavour notes.’ 

“Our students are provided with the scientific and practical knowledge of coffee at the FoA, and this kind of training facilitated by Mr. Nalin Priyantha and his staff at the Amberly Place Coffee Academy completes their knowledge while opening up plenty of other avenues. Students who participated in these programmes were quite impressed with the practical insights they received,” Prof. Janaki Mohotti from the Department of Crop Science, FoA, University of Peradeniya told the Daily FT.

Since coffee wasn’t given any notable importance in the country over the last century, the crop is relatively less researched, Dr. Mohotti points out. The FoA at the Peradeniya University has initiated some research work in coffee today and in addition, work is being conducted which will lead to commercial ventures by the FoA utilising some old coffee plantations belonging to the university. “Therefore, for the young, enthusiastic entrepreneurs of the FoA, this venture and the support receiving from the Amberly Place Coffee Academy is invaluable,” notes the scholar.

With the growing interest and the increasing demand for coffee within the country and outside, Sri Lanka could reclaim its lost coffee glory, observes Prof. Mohotti. Together with the higher prices offered for dried coffee over the past few years and the growth of coffee cafes, the job opportunities in the industry are tremendous, she adds. “The training offered at the Academy will also be quite useful for youth hoping to pursue their higher studies abroad as it would afford them part-time jobs. Moreover, such training will also contribute towards scientific research and development and will help complete the overall coffee industry here at home while strengthening it as well,” concludes Prof. Mohotti. 

Pix by Lasantha Kumara