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By Madushka Balasuriya
There are many words thrown around fairly casually when it comes to describing food and by far one of the most egregious is ‘gourmet’ – as such it was refreshing to see the new Gourmet Sunday Brunch at the Shangri-La Hotel Colombo’s Capital Bar & Grill more than live up to its word.
Earlier this week, the Daily FT, along with several other media outlets, was given a sneak peak of what to expect from the brunch, which will officially be open to the public from 27 October.
All you can eat with a twist
The first thing you notice is that while the concept is all you can eat, there is no buffet. Instead, diners are provided something akin to a set course meal, but with the option of having unlimited appetisers and desserts. It is only the main course that guests must choose only one of.
The appetisers give diners an option of eight dishes in total, inclusive of two soups, while a trolley with freshly-shucked oysters also makes its way around to be feasted on. As advertised, all these items fall in the all-you-can-eat category, and with delicious high-brow offerings such as Beef Carpaccio, Tuna Tartare, and Mushroom Cappuccino with Truffle Cream, to name but a few, there is more than enough variety to keep you interested.
The dishes are also made to order, which means that the usual complaint of food getting stale in large chafing dishes common to buffets doesn’t really apply here.
Moving on to the mains, this is where the term ‘gourmet’ truly comes into its own. US Beef Striploin, Shrimp and Saffron Risotto, Hand Cut Lamb Ragout, and Mushroom Tortellini, are some of the dishes diners can expect, and each offers something that one would not find at many other brunch buffets.
The presentation of the dishes too would befit many a fine-dining restaurant, while the portion sizing is above average. Personally, the undoubted favourite was the lamb ragout, with flavours oozing through with every mouthful.
A word also about the carving trolleys that make their way from table to table, which offer unlimited servings of Honey Glazed Pork, and my personal favourite, the truly excellent Salmon Wellington. Soft, pink, and packed full of flavour, the salmon, served with an exquisite lemon butter sauce, is truly not something to be missed.
Show-stopping desserts
But if the starters and mains were good, the desserts simply stole the show. Dishes such as the outrageous Raspberry Creme Brûlée – complete with perfectly caramelised sugar on the top, and that oh-so-satisfying crackle – the perfectly-balanced Tiramisu, and the incredibly-decadent Hazelnut Gianduja – ostensibly a slice of super creamy homemade chocolate – are sure to be long-term favourites among diners.
While others such as the warmly-served Soft Centred Chocolate Cake will no doubt have the chocolate-lovers salivating at the mere sight of it.
On the whole, the Capital Bar & Grill has truly outdone itself with the desserts, especially as they fall under the all-you-can-eat category.
Doing gourmet right
Executive Chef Patrick Buttgereit, who says his cooking is inspired by his travels around the world, has put forward a selection of dishes he considers favourites. Joined by Chef de Cuisine of Capital Bar & Grill Shenal Perera, the pair have put forward a genuinely exciting array of items.
But the most striking aspect of the brunch is that it really does offer that feeling of sophistication, with nearly all of the dishes something you would expect while fine-dining as opposed to brunch on a Sunday.
This aesthetic is elevated further by the relaxed vibe of the Capital Bar & Grill, where you can also sip on a glass of complimentary Italian bubbly, or make your pick from a mixology menu that features classic and contemporary beverages created at the hands of experts.
The Gourmet Sunday Brunch at Capital Bar & Grill is served from 12 noon to 3 p.m. For reservations, pricing and more information, call (+94) 117 888 288 or email [email protected].
Pix by Daminda
Harsha Perera