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The ‘Chinese’ we knew and loved also came with a lot of MSG, equal amounts of fat (oil) and a whole lot of grease, save a few places that served a decent Chinese food experience. Here in Sri Lanka, a typical Chinese meal would consist of a small mountain of savoury rice, a few spoonfuls of hot butter cuttlefish, tangles of garlic kan-kun, soya induced cubes of chicken/pork/beef with copious amounts of chilli paste – a perfect plate for the chillie loving Sri Lankan palate. However this is not even close to what the mainland Chinese would consider typical. Nor is it as spicy as we make it here, rather it plays on a sweeter and lighter tastes with dumplings and noodle soup a top priority.
So when China Doll first took a seat alongside its long line of descendants, we expected nothing less than the typical, perhaps with a nicer presentation. Almost three years down the line, we couldn’t have been more wrong. What China Doll offers is a more eclectic version that manages to both combine the best of both worlds – the proper Chinese dishes and the Lankan Chinese. Playing on a more middle ground, what you get at China Doll is visually appealing, gastronomically delighting Chinese food which marries the traditional with a modern flair of bold flavours.
New dine-in space
Since China Doll’s initial step in to the local culinary market as a take away and delivery joint, we can now finally take a seat, sip fresh lychee lemonade, enjoy the captivating art that hangs at intervals on the wall and dive into a sea of flavours at China Doll’s new dine-in space at Alfred House Avenue, Colombo 3.
Imposing white arches, brick walls and an invigorating mix of spices welcomes those with a hungry stomach or penchant for Chinese at their new restaurant located in a quieter space, away from the busy streets of Colombo. It is easy to unwind here and let your mood be lifted to the quiet music that drifts in to the room along with the whiff of specialities being whipped up in the kitchen.
Here to try out the restaurant for the first time, we are greeted by the ever-so-friendly Co-Director and Head Chef Johann Jayasekera.
Jayasekera is quick to inform us that all this started with their love for South East Asian food, especially the likes of Thai, Singaporean and Vietnamese. Having being trained at the prestigious William Angliss School in Melbourne and apprenticed at George’s restaurant there, Jayasekera returned to Sri Lanka to help out with the famous eatery, Chinese Dragon run by his aunt and family.
“Fifteen years later, I’m still here,” he quipped. “Three years ago my cousin and I wanted to do something different. This is when we started China Doll. We started with noodle boxes and step by step we have grown into what we are today.”
New menu
Wanting to expand further as the business thrived over the years, the directors wanted to move in another direction, hence the introduction of burgers, juices and desserts to the menu. On a menu that features 120 dishes, over 30 dishes are new entrants, and have been accepted with an open heart by diners.
“We have kept some of our customers’ favourites, like the laksa, etc., and added what we would like to eat,” he said.
The China Doll cheeseburger is one of these new items, and something worth trying out; not just once but if possible on a weekly basis. Easily the best burger in town, this is a burger lovers’ haven between two fresh and homemade slices of a bun. It’s huge and you are likely to get your hands dirty finishing this baby. There is a layer of crispy bacon, all crunchy at the edges with a patty that is guaranteed to be 100% beef, fried egg, caramelised onions, apple slaw and decorated with salad leaves. It comes with an accompaniment of coleslaw and a version of mini jenga of potato wedges. Delicious.
The chicken wontons are also on a level of their own. Served with spiced Sichuan red oil, they are crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. The mee goreng follows the same lead of being delectable. A dish that blends fresh hokkien noodle, tofu, broccoli, red bell pepper, oyster mushroom, shiitake mushroom, carrot, cabbage, baby corn, dry red chili, bean sprout and fried egg; the portions are big and exquisite.
Jayasekera noted that the menu includes options for individual main courses as well as share platters of mains as well as starters, soups, salads, signature noodles, vegetarian dishes, vegetable dishes and desserts.
From the starters some of their tastiest are the sticky spare ribs with sticky kung pao bean sauce, vegetable spring rolls, Thai chicken wings and firecracker prawns. We also hear that the seafood laksa is a must try at China Doll.
There are five new salads in the menu as well which includes prawn and pommel salad, green mango, apple and pommel salad and Thai hot ‘n sour beef salad. New dishes have been included to meat and seafood dish section as well which could be ordered as accompaniments to noodles or rice. There are a number of dishes under prawn, chicken, fish, beef, pork, cuttlefish, full live crab and full fish.
Delectable dishes
In the individual main section are 11 delectable dishes, of which the lamb massaman curry (with potato and pineapple), jungle curry, Thai royal green curry, Singapore chili prawn, tempura beer batter fish and tamarind chili roast pork (with toasted peanuts and dry red chili) are key.
Dessert is something else. Not featuring an extensive selection, Jayasekera has kept it simple. “It’s been fun trying out various dishes, now that I have more time to tinker with various ideas that I have,” he said.
Trying out the Chinese sponge cake with passion fruit crème and glaze, we could say that entering into this section in the food menu was a great choice by the team. The sponge was soft and the passion fruit crème and glaze was perfect; even someone who doesn’t like chewing seeds in their dessert is bound to forget the dislike and dive in. We hear there is peanut butter crème brulee with salted caramel sauce and chocolate mocha role with vanilla crème sauce to be tried out as well. “We are constantly trying to better ourselves and improve the dishes. We are on a constant role of innovation.”
While 50 people can enjoy dining downstairs, the venue also can accommodate people upstairs and consists of a swank bar with an eye-catching and interesting mural as its backdrop. Taking in to consideration the outdoor space as well, the venue can host 120-150 people at any given time. The upstair area can be reserved for events as well.
China Doll also has an outdoor catering service, thereby successfully covering all aspects of private and corporate dining.
