Thursday Dec 26, 2024
Saturday, 16 February 2019 00:00 - - {{hitsCtrl.values.hits}}
Text and Pix by Madushka Balasuriya
If you’re familiar with Colombo’s fine dining space, then you’re likely already aware of the calibre of fare offered by Rare at Residences by Uga. However this past Valentine’s Day the ‘Rare Valentine’s’ food and beverage pairing surpassed even its own exalted standards.
First, in terms of value, the Rs. 9,000 nett per couple price definitely stood out, especially considering some of the premium items on the menu, while for an additional Rs. 6,000 nett per couple there was also a carefully-curated beverage pairing to be had. Now I understand if folks forewent this option – maybe you don’t like alcohol with your meals, maybe you don’t like mixing your beverages – but personally, it was possibly the outstanding feature of the entire meal, one which really encapsulates what Rare does so well, so darn consistently.
In a nutshell, Rare understands flavours. While this may seem like a fairly vanilla observation, it truly cannot be overstated how well each dish segued into the next and how each beverage complemented each item. The amount of thought that must have gone into the menu deserves no little acknowledgement.
Because Rare (and I apologise for this in advance) cares. It cares about consistency, it cares about its food, and, most importantly, it cares about its patrons. This is no more evident than when taking into account the whole ‘Rare Valentine’s’ experience.
As you enter the dining area you’re greeted with a delightful welcome drink, an exotic amuse bouche served with the Love Potion No 9, Rare’s luxurious aperitif cocktail with a dash of fresh lemon, mint and topped with champagne. Then you’re seated amongst a row of candlelit tables, as an endless playlist of classic love ballads serenade you and your special someone.
The combination of the spacing between tables and just-loud-enough music, meanwhile, meant you could hold private conversations without being overheard, but also not having to raise your voice.
That said, there was a humorous moment when the sound on the speaker system rose by more than a few decibels just as Richard Marx was really getting into a rendition of ‘Right Here Waiting’ – an over-exuberant employee with a soft spot for Marx, or simply a stray hand on the volume toggle? Guess we’ll never know.
But alas, that moment was the only unscripted one of the evening, everything else being meticulously planned. We started off our meal with the ultimate aphrodisiac, oysters. Served up with a creamy wasabi foam and a hint of lime zest, it performed its intended duty of kick-starting the taste-buds admirably. The vodka pairing was presented the way vodka was meant to be had – neat, ice-cold, and in a shot glass; like I said, Rare just ‘gets it’ when it comes to flavours.
This mastery of food and beverage was prevalent throughout. In fact our starters, the Squash and Carrot Velouté and Poached Baby Crayfish, might have faltered on their own if not for their liquid accompaniments.
The velouté, which came with a side splattering of homemade ginger preserve, was, in a word, sweet. It might even have been a little too sweet for some, but paired with the crisp, fresh acidity of a Chilean Chardonnay, it hit all the right marks.
The crayfish meanwhile was more traditional in its flavour profile, meshing sweet with a hit of saltiness, as it was dished up with a side of a charred spicy pineapple purée, pickled root vegetables, and tarragon, alongside some salted butter. But with such strong flavours, it’s easy to find your palate overpowered, which was precisely why the butteriness and light acidity of the paired Italian Pinot Grigio was very well received indeed.
When it came to the mains, however, the beverage pairings took a backseat, content to let the food do the proverbial talking. The Balvenie Single Malt for the exquisitely cooked (medium rare) Black Angus Beef Fillet, and the French Sauvignon Blanc for the Pumpkin and Sage Ravioli were clearly chosen for their ability to offer breathers of sorts in-between mouthfuls – lest you devour your food too quickly.
Moreover, the evening was designed by Rare to be experienced, not rushed. Each course was served 15-20 minutes apart, the lighter liquor was served generously, while the stronger stuff came in smaller doses – so as to not have you unduly inebriated on your way home. Rare’s thoughtfulness was prevalent at every juncture, right down to an impeccable mandarin and strawberry sorbet to cleanse the palate.
As such there was no more fitting a way to finish off the evening than with a Rare staple, one of its virtuoso homemade ice creams, a culmination of all that makes Rare’s food great.
Passion-fruit and chilli are arguably the strangest of bedfellows, but put them together in an ice-cream and just wait for the fireworks. This was a dish that I could not get enough of, despite the chilli aftertaste catching me off guard on more than one occasion. The chocolate chips were another left-field but welcome addition.
Meanwhile, the texturally unerring Belgian Chocolate Mousse also had some nifty surprises in the form of a cookie crumble base, and a wonderfully deft mint fluff, which was as unexpected as it was delightful.
On the whole this review is somewhat of an anomaly, in that it looks back on a one-night event which you the reader likely won’t have the opportunity to experience until next Valentine’s – however that’s not really the point.
For Rare, this was a moment to almost strut its stuff, and it was by no means a rare (no pun intended) occurrence. The folks at Rare know what they’re doing, and whether it be Valentine’s Day or a simple date night, Rare will not let you down and, more often than not, will blow you away.