HSBC CFW The highs and lows

Enfant terrible and all-round fire-starter Stefan Andre Joachim sifts through the highs and lows of HSBC Colombo Fashion Week 2019

Q: What are your thoughts on HSBC CFW 2019?

A: Let me start off by saying that this is the personal opinion of a single individual, so it’s only one of the 22 million people in Sri Lanka. I have always believed that CFW is one of many platforms for Sri Lanka to showcase its creative talent and CFW 2019 is no different to the many shows of the past, with certain designers proving absolutely worthy and others a waste of time.

Q: What did HSBC CFW get right and where did it fail?

A: I loved the fact that this year CFW celebrated ‘Colombo as a city’ and had it in scattered venues because it certainly broke the monotony of the spaces, especially if you went for all the shows. 

I loved that they created a designer exhibition because it gives those who aren’t fortunate to be amongst the invited privileged to also be a part of the week in some way. Possibly next time it could be in a more public space so no one feels intimidated by the venues. 

Where it failed tragically was by combining those designers whose careers are fully invested in fashion and those who dip in and out as a venture to pass time. 

There are many designers like Dimuthu, Charini and Sonali who have actually invested in their labels and businesses as designers, so combining them with those who treat fashion as a past-time for the sake of eight minutes of glamour, in my opinion, is not correct, and I reiterate that this is only my opinion. 

Q: Which designers did you think showcased the most outstanding collections and why?

A: True fashion is subjective and a form of expression and I don’t believe in critiquing any art form because it’s finally an artist’s vision. Having said that, many a glorified tailor lives amongst us in disguise so I will only comment on the Emerging Designers show. Every single one of the Emerging Designers was exciting to see because it’s always a fully charged collection that you witness bursting with energy. 

Showing complete promise in ready-to-wear were Nilusha Maddumage and Nadeesha Ratnayake because their collections were well-thought-out as well as creatively interesting. Manasha Silva’s first attempt was really good because she showed potential in being slightly edgy as well as commercially viable. 

The winner of the Emerging section without any question for me, personally, was Udarika Dalugama, who smashed that ball right out the park. She is what I would call ‘current and on-point’ and after all, that’s what fashion is about. The medium she used with the cuts was fantastic. I hope she goes on to keep her edge and doesn’t end up being bullied into changing her style. 

Sonali Dharmawardena’s collection on the last day was spectacular and could have easily been the closing collection at CFW. Sonali certainly flew the Sri Lankan flag high and no question. 

Q: A key and ongoing concern is designers who are not merely ‘inspired by’ but are actually stealing others’ designs. Your thoughts?

A: You get fraudulent behaviour in every spectrum of life and this trade is no different. However, any artist true to their craft, trade and belief will never steal another’s idea or concept. The term ‘inspired’ is loosely thrown about in Sri Lanka and I believe that the lack of education in the trade is what has caused this. 

Sri Lanka is at that point where the fashion industry is about to take off and finally so because of the education system like AOD, the University of Moratuwa and Raffles paving the way for this to happen. In truth, I have only seen fashion concept theft amongst the so-called designers who are playing at what they imagine is fashion and those who have the money to back their fraudulent behaviour. 

What the real concern here is, is that even those who know better from an audience and media perspective condone this behaviour because no one has the backbone to call it for what it is based on favour and fear.

The notable copies were stolen from Ashi Studio and Dolce and Gabbana. 

Q: What are your thoughts on the Emerging Designers show?

A: CFW has played a pivotal role through the years in taking over from where the fashion education system lays off. I believe this is the most important part of any show because this is the entry point for an aspiring creative. The Emerging show however should be for a one-time showing, because there is a limit to how many times any new designer can emerge. 

Q: What is your advice to new designers in Sri Lanka?

A: The entry point of a career is the most exciting. It’s the one place and point in your life where no one expects you to create for sale purposes or it should be so. Do not confuse your role with that of a pattern maker or seamstress or even a marketer, those are other specific professions. Your key role is to be creative and by being so, to break fashion boundaries. 

Do not be bullied into becoming a tailor to the aunties and uncles of Colombo or most importantly to converting your designs to support their laziness at the gym. Stay true to your vision no matter what you do and once you are happy with that vision, then start creating a diffusion line for sales. Never, ever rush a collection from a runway to a rack unless someone is willing to buy your vision, not their comfort. 

Q: How can local designers best balance between creativity and market demands?

A: By simply creating a diffusion line. 

Q: What are the barriers to creativity in the local fashion industry?

A: A creative mind will never have a barrier because that’s what creativity is. Manufacture may have its limitations due to the lack of fabrics and accessories but I will revert to a creative mind on that again. 

Q: What are your expectations of HSBC CFW going forward?

A: I have no expectations of CFW as it is a privately-owned company that is governed by its own Board of Directors who probably have their own vision for that platform. It has certainly paved the way through the last 15 years for many a designer and kudos to CFW for that. Like CFW, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week is also a platform for emerging designers and in the recent past for established labels as well. I would say I have two expectations for the ‘industry’ as a whole. 

One is to see more creative designers being nurtured and being fully supported in their endeavour to reach beyond tailoring for aunties. Two is to see pride of place being given to Sri Lankan designers at Sri Lankan shows instead of Indian or other nationalities.

Pix by Upul Abayasekara, Ruwan Walpola and Shehan Gunasekara