Twister SL at OGF brings value and flavour

By Madushka Balasuriya 

It was somewhere around the mid-19th century, in the town of Bursa in modern-day Turkey, that the most iconic facet of what we now know as the Döner Kebab was introduced – the vertical rotisserie. 

Indeed, the sight of seasoned meat stacked in the shape of an inverted cone turning slowly on an upright rotisserie, next to a vertical cooking element, is probably etched into the minds of many of those who have studied and lived in any number of European cities. While the thin shavings of meat that are sliced from this contraption are also undoubtedly closely associated with many similar dishes from around the world, such as the Arab shawarma, Greek gyros, and Mexican al pastor.

But aside from its birthplace of Turkey, where the kebab really began to gain traction was in Germany, the dish popularised by Turkish immigrants in the 1970s. It is therefore unsurprising that Colombo’s resident Turkish/German chef Huseyn Turan, who has worked at some of the best restaurants in Europe under the guidance of several Michelin star Chefs, last year introduced Twister SL in Sri Lanka - a restaurant specialising in Döner Kebab.

Such has been its success, that its latest expansion effort has taken it to the Food Studio at One Galle Face (OGF). Opened officially on 9 November, it offers yet another option in a food court overflowing with choice in terms of worldly cuisines.

Daily FT recently headed down to OGF to see what the fuss was all about, and we weren’t left disappointed.

Value for money

The first thing you notice are the prices, with items ranging from Rs. 350 - Rs. 1450, and everything presented in nett figures – alas, be gone hidden costs! – it more than holds its own with its neighbours, boasting some of the lowest prices in the food court. These prices are then further validated when compared with the portion sizes.

As such one of our favourite dishes was undoubtedly the trademark Currywurst (Rs. 700), which sees German chicken sausage paired with madras curry sauce, fries & tomato sauce. It’s a hearty dish that fits right in if you’re with friends and want to sneak in a quick snack without breaking the bank. And that’s the other thing, while you can eat in all on your own, the dish and its presentation simply screams ‘share’.

Speaking of sharing, the next two dishes of note - the Iskender (Chicken Rs. 900, Beef Rs. 1450) and the Turkish Delight (Chicken Rs. 900, Beef Rs. 1,450) – are definitely better split among friends. 

The Turkish Delight is your standard sharing platter, with shavings of meat supplemented by salad, three different sauces, and an array of pita bread. It’s something many would be familiar with. The Iskender however is a little more exotic, as it sees diced Pita served alongside meat, homemade tomato puree and butter, and then rounded off with a serving of Curd. The somewhat messy presentation though belies complex flavours, and many who are brave enough to go for it won’t be disappointed.

Attention to detail

The meat itself, both the chicken and beef, were packed full of flavour, with the accompanying sauces such complementing them perfectly. However as expected by a restaurant headed by Chef Huseyn, the magic is in the finer details.

In this case, we absolutely loved the serving of pickled vegetables alongside our dishes, which we were told had been fermented for up to two weeks. It’s a simple thing, but one that really elevates the flavour profile of a dish. The meat also is grilled as opposed to fried, ensuring that in avoids that unpleasant oily taste.

Recommendation 

Twister SL, with its unique take on grilled meat – marinated with a secret recipe and served in a variety of iterations such as wraps, submarines, burgers and hot dogs – gives patrons a host of options. For those with a sweet tooth, the Nutella Lavash (Rs. 650) is also available. On the whole, Twister SL is a more than worthy addition to OGF’s food space, and one that is sure to be around for the long haul.

Pix by Indraratne Balasuriya