A riveting river cruise

Saturday, 29 March 2014 00:00 - - {{hitsCtrl.values.hits}}

By Tashiya De Mel This week Trekurious travels to the coastal town of Balapitiya to go on a river cruise on the Madu Ganga, a coastal wetland ecosystem and estuary located in the town of Balapitiya is considered one of the last expanses of pristine mangrove forest left in Sri Lanka (after Bentota). Considered to be the second largest wetland habitat in Sri Lanka, it is home to over 300 species of aquatic flora and around 250 vertebrae species. Having been told the best way to experience the beauty of the river is by boat, I set off to find myself a boat, which proved to be not too hard in this coastal town. My boat ride took me to interesting riverscapes of cool and shady mangrove caves, secluded islands, cinnamon plantations, ancient temples, and allowed me to unwind with some fish therapy.

The river is populated by around 64 islands, and also happens to be a birdwatchers paradise, home to Brahmin Kites, Sea Eagles, Kingfishers, Egrets, Cormorants, and other exotic species. As we cruised along the river, we passed thick mangrove vegetation lining the riverbeds, monkeys chilling on treetops, and giant water monitors weaving through the waters. Further upstream, the waters are brackish and kraal-fishing constructions made of bamboo are plentiful. I am told that these are used for prawn fishing, once a significant livelihood in the river that is now in serious decline. A plethora of islets are found in this region, from tiny specks housing deserted shrines, to larger ones home to over 250 families connected to the mainland by nothing but a rickety footbridge. The inhabitants of these little islands are mostly traditional fisherman, engaged in traditional cottage industries such as fishing and production of cinnamon.

Kothdoowa Rajamaha Viharaya The river is also a cultural landmark full of ancient temples. One of the most popular, Kothdoowa Raja Viharaya, is said to have once housed the sacred tooth relic when it had to be protected in the time of Portuguese rule. The temple is relatively small, but has a beautiful setting on the river, encompassed in the shade of araliya trees. Here I got the chance to feed the friendly mountain squirrel that resides on the island, receive a blessing from the head priest, take a tour of the temple, and discover the 130-year-old Bo tree planted by King Parakramabahu’s Minister, Deva Pathiraja. Maa Doowa Island Temple The next stop on my river cruise was the Maa Doowa Island, the largest island in the river. The temple situated in the island has a 600-year-old Bo tree that is believed to be a sapling of the Sri Maha Bodhi in Anuradhapura. The resident monk tells me that the premises have served as a holy place for over 1,000 years. It is home to some interesting artefacts; a primitive toilet over 1,000 years old recently excavated by archaeologists, a 300-year-old metallic tray depicting the Sri Lankan flag during the Polonnaruwa kingdom, and an ancient Ola leaf book about the discipline of Buddhism written in Pali text. The British made multiple renovations to the flooring and ceilings at the temple and some evidence of their rule still remain, from the handmade Victorian tiles to the symbols of the English rose found on glass doors and ceilings. The original colours of the murals in the image room painted using resin of tree and bark are also relatively intact. Also living in the temple are five adorable cats, all conveniently named ‘Pinty’ by the monk.

Fish therapy One of the stops on the river cruise was a floating fish farm where I got the chance to treat my feet to an extremely unique pedicure. Hundreds of red tilapia are trapped in small square areas for the visitors to dip their feet in. The fish begin nibbling at your feet, removing dead skin with each bite. I decided to try it out to see what all the fuss was about. At first it’s more of a ticklish feeling and once you get used to the sensation, the dozens of fish nibbling can actually feel quite relaxing. Nearby is also an island where cinnamon products are made. A small demo done by a local showed me how cinnamon is peeled off the bark and rolled to make sticks. If interested, you can purchase cinnamon-based products here such as oil and incense. It is claimed that the rich biodiversity of the Madu Ganga is a result of the tide. On any given day during the low tide, the sea water comes inland and mixes with fresh water and in the evening, vice versa creating this fascinating ecosystem. (Trekurious together with DailyFT explores Sri Lanka for the curious traveller. Trekurious works with talented individuals and great brands to create amazing experiential tours, activities, and events in Sri Lanka. You can find out more at www.Trekurious.com.)