Adventures in Istanbul

Saturday, 24 August 2013 00:00 - - {{hitsCtrl.values.hits}}

A city located on two continents – Europe and Asia – and the capital of three empires with over 8,500 years of civilisation, Istanbul is nothing short of incredible. It ticks all the boxes, offering a rich history, fabulous culture, stunning sights, world-class dining, huge malls featuring top local and global brands, heaps of entertainment and so much more. Turkish Airlines hosted a tour of Istanbul for local media including the Daily FT a few days ago, treating its guests with a fully-packed exciting itinerary that showcased the sights and sounds of Istanbul in all their splendour. An article covering day 1 and 2 of the tour was published in the Daily FT yesterday; following is a breakdown of day 3 and 4: Text and pix by Marianne David .....................................................................................................................................

Day 3 has been booked for a full day of sightseeing and we’re raring to go, impatient to visit the top tourist sites in this incredible city. Our guide picks us up early and the first stop is for breakfast at a Turkish restaurant built in such a way that is it part of the ancient City Walls. We enjoy a traditional breakfast and then it’s time to head to the Hippodrome. Hippodrome Now known as the Sultan Ahmet Square and maintained by the Turkish Government, the former Hippodrome of Constantinople was the sporting and social centre of Constantinople, capital of the Byzantine Empire, and was built to hold 100,000 spectators. It is also known as the Horse Square since horse racing and chariot racing were conducted here. The word hippodrome comes from the Greek hippos (horse) and dromos (path or way). Given the revolts over the years that impacted the square, the most severe of these being the Nika riots of 532, today there are only three key attractions at this World Heritage Site: The Walled Obelisk, the Tripod of Plataea (known as the Serpent Column) and the Obelisk of Theodosius (known as the Egyptian Obelisk). The Walled Obelisk is 34 metres high and an impressive sight indeed. It had been built by Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus in the 10th century and originally covered with gilded bronze plaques. The stone core of this monument is what stands today. The Serpent Column has no serpents in sight. While it had originally featured three intertwined serpents with diamonds for eyes, all that remains today is the base. Of the three heads, one has been recovered and placed in a museum, while the others are still missing. The column had been cast to celebrate the victory of the Greeks over the Persians during the Persian Wars in the 5th century BC and Constantine had ordered the Tripod to be moved from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi and set in middle of the Hippodrome. The 3,500-year-old Obelisk of Theodosius had been brought to the Hippodrome by Theodosius the Great. It had been cut into three parts to be transported to Constantinople and only the top section remains today. Sultan Ahmed Mosque Next we visit the world-famous Sultan Ahmed Mosque, better known as the Blue Mosque. The reason for it being known as the Blue Mosque is not apparent from the outside, but the moment you step in, it is obvious: thousands of beautiful blue tiles adorn the interior of the mosque, which also boasts over 200 stained glass windows with intricate designs. The mosque features one main dome, six stunning minarets and eight secondary domes. The mosque was built from 1609 to 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I. It is still used as a mosque despite being a major tourist attraction in Istanbul and is closed to visitors during praying times. Many of the decorations had been made by Seyyid Kasim Gubari, regarded as the greatest calligrapher of his time, and the tablets on the walls are inscribed with the names of the caliphs and verses from the Quran. In addition to this, 25 different kinds of tulip motifs have also been used extensively. The mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca) is made of finely carved and sculptured marble, while the minber (pulpit) is also richly decorated. Our guide explains that when constructing the mosque, the architect wanted to compete with the nearby Hagia Sophia but could not, despite the latter being 1,000 years older. “There are over 3,000 mosques in Istanbul alone, in addition to 154 churches and 17 synagogues. This shows the tolerance of the Ottoman sultans,” he adds. Basilica Cistern Our next stop is at the Basilica Cistern, famously featured in Dan Brown’s ‘Inferno’. Built to hold 100,000 tons of water, this cistern is the largest one in a city of over 400 cisterns. Built in the sixth century, it has 336 marble columns which are lit at the base, making for a magical, awe-inspiring sight. It is no surprise that the biggest attractions here are the spectacular Medusa heads at the base of two columns in the northwest corner, one upside down and the other turned on its side. Hagia Sophia Next it’s time to visit the Hagia Sophia, which was first a church, then a mosque and is now a museum. Converted into a museum in 1935, the structure is 56 metres tall and boasts an impressive collection of Christian and Islamic art. Known as ‘The Church of Holy Wisdom,’ it was built by Emperor Justinian circa 535 AD and was the largest church in the world at the time. Used as a church for 916 years, in the mid-15th century it was converted into a mosque and served as one for 481 years. In the process of conversion, minarets, a minber and mihrab were added. Almost all of the mosaics were eventually covered with whitewash and plaster. They were not destroyed, only covered, and some have been carefully uncovered now. As we enter the complex, we first see the remains of the second Hagia Sophia; what stands now is the third structure. The first two were burned down by fires. Above the altar area, a beautiful mosaic of the Virgin Mary and Jesus Christ has been uncovered. On the four pendentives that carry the massive dome, there are stunning figures of four seraphim, representing the highest rank of angels in the Christian angelic hierarchy, in addition to huge wooden and leather medallions with Arabic inscriptions. A scaffolding dominates the first floor since restorations are being carried out on the dome. Pointing to a cross marked on the floor, our guide says it was the first ‘centre of the world’. On the second floor, we pass through a marble gate known as the ‘Gate of Heaven and Hell’ and stand in awe in front of the intricate and breathtaking Deesis mosaic, which represents the Virgin Mary, Jesus Christ and John the Baptist. Too soon, it’s time to leave. Topkapi Palace The final stop on the day’s itinerary is the Topkapi Palace. The outermost court of the palace consists of three museums – Archaeology, Old Eastern Works and the Enamelled Kiosk – but we aren’t able to visit them, and head straight into the palace instead. The administrative centre of the Ottoman Empire from 1465 to 1853, Topkapi Palace was built during the reign of Sultan Mehmet and completed in six years. The complex consists of four courtyards. A walk through the Imperial Treasury leaves us stunned, given the opulence and intricacy of the objects displayed, including impressive thrones, fabulous jewellery, heavily bejewelled crockery and armour studded with gems. Even the curtains on display are embroidered with golden wire and decorated with pearls, rubies and emeralds. Most of the pieces featured in the Imperial Treasury are spoils of war, gifts or pieces produced by palace craftsmen. The library is a wonder to behold, an airy well-lit space with large cushioned sitting/lounging areas, stained glass windows and walls decorated with 16th century tiles featuring tulip motifs. The Imperial Council and the Tower of Justice are just as impressive, while a walk around the Clock Room, featuring so very many different kinds of clocks, transports you to another time.

On day 4, Turkish Airlines Marketing and Sales Specialist Mehmet Tiryakioglu – who has been with us throughout our tour, going out of his way to make it extra-special – picks us up by 10 a.m. and we take a trip all the way to where the Bosphorus meets the Black Sea, driving through the financial area of Istanbul which is filled with high-rise buildings and then through the quaint Sariyer area. In Sariyer, we see people relaxing on the banks of Bosphorus – swimming, swaying in hammocks, tending to barbecues and enjoying the cool breeze under the shade of the trees. We stop to enjoy some borek – traditional Turkish bread stuffed with minced meats or cheese – which is melt-in the-mouth delicious. Yoros Castle Yoros Castle is located at the confluence of the Black Sea and the Bosphorus and sits on a hill which offers stunning views of the Bosphorus. What remains now are only ruins of the castle. On the opposite shore is the Rumeli Kavagi, which formerly held a fortification similar to Yoros Castle. A massive chain could be extended across the Bosphorus between the two points, cutting off the straits to attacking warships, similar to the chain across the Golden Horn used to defend Constantinople during the last Ottoman siege. Suleymaniye Mosque and Taksim Square We return to the city and visit the Suleymaniye Mosque, an Ottoman imperial mosque located on the Third Hill of Istanbul. It is the largest mosque in the city and one of its best-known sights. Much quieter and less crowded than the Blue Mosque, it’s a place where one can spend hours lost in thought. Next it’s time for a walk through Taksim Square and down the surrounding pedestrian streets lined with shops and bustling with people. We walk from one end to the other, stopping at stores all the way to pick up various gifts and trinkets. St. Anthony of Padua Church There’s one more beautiful place on the day’s agenda: The St. Anthony of Padua Church. Mass is in progress when we visit and the sound of hymns fills the air. A basilica and the largest Roman Catholic Church in Istanbul, the original St. Anthony of Padua Church was built in 1725 by the local Italian community of Istanbul. It was later demolished and replaced with the current building which was constructed on the same location. The church is run by Italian priests, with masses being said in Italian, Polish, English and Turkish. We end our day with a quick visit to a mall to get in some last minute shopping and then rush back to the hotel to pack up and prepare for departure. We reach Turkish Airlines’ CIP Lounge in time for a quick dinner and then it’s time to board the plane and say goodbye to this impressive and unforgettable city, which is truly the stuff of delightful dreams.