Delft: A secluded island paradise

Saturday, 5 July 2014 00:40 - - {{hitsCtrl.values.hits}}

Delft Island is Sri Lanka’s furthest inhabited island, located in the Palk Strait, East of the Jaffna Peninsula. The island has a rich history and is home to a variety of archeological and cultural artifacts, an abundance of coral, limestone, palmyrah palms, and stunning beaches.

The essentials

The only access to the island is by ferry, which can be taken from the Karikattuwan jetty. The ferry departs at 9 a.m. and takes about an hour to reach Delft. The journey is not for the fainthearted and we learnt this the hard way. Depending on weather conditions and time of year, the swaying and rocking of the ferry can induce severe seasickness, so be prepared. Make sure you catch the return ferry at 2:30 p.m. or you will have to camp out overnight, as there is no proper accommodation on the island. The island, only a mere 30 km from India, is referred to as ‘Neduntivu’ amongst the locals. Unlike other nearby islands identified by their Tamil names, Delft, named after the Dutch city, has retained its colonial name to this day. As you step off the ferry, you are greeted by an array of colourful boats bobbing calmly on the gentle sea. The shoreline is made up of white sand, many shells, and chunks of coral. The sea extends out into the horizon in a layer of colours, starting with clear waters on the coastline, which blend into a pastel blue, and end with a turquoise finish. Tuk-tuks are the best mode of transportation, since the attractions are not close to each other and it is virtually impossible to stand around for too long in the scorching heat. It is best to stick to one tuk-tuk for your entire visit since the driver will essentially be your tour guide and if you’re lucky, reveal an interesting fact or two, about each of the locations. The hire will cost you around Rs. 1,500, give, or take, which is the standard price for a couple of hours. As you make your way around the island, the first striking feature is the walls safeguarding the houses. They are made entirely of dead coral and bits of limestone stacked on top of each other. There is no plaster holding it together, which makes it even more remarkable. Dry palmyrah palm leaves often accompany the coral walls for extra protection. The island is made up of barren, arid landscapes, littered with shells and coral. You will occasionally pass through flat, grassy plains decorated with dry shrubs and small lakes of clear water collected in white, porous mud. The diversity of the island’s landscapes exudes a wild beauty that encapsulates much of the remote island.

Remnants of a colonial past

Even after all these years, the island still bears evidence of the Portuguese, Dutch, and British influence. As you walk the long corridors of the Delft hospital, remains of a crumbling fort hidden behind the hospital becomes visible. The two-storey fort made mostly of coral and limestone is relatively smaller than its counterparts found elsewhere in Sri Lanka.

If you take a closer look, you will notice the intricate detail of a variety of shells in all shapes and sizes fused to the coral walls. It really is beautiful despite its damaged state. If you’re daring enough, you may even climb the fort and take a peek at the stunning beach located in front of the decaying coral fortress. On an island populated by coconut trees and palmyrah palms, the occurrence of a rare, ancient baobab tree is rather peculiar. There are six species of the tree, which is native to Madagascar. It is more commonly known as the ‘tree of life’ due to its valuable uses as shelter, food, water, and clothing. It is shaped like an immensely overgrown bamboo shoot with short stubby branches and a wide girth with an opening on the base of the bark. You can go inside the bark and observe the interior of the tree ‘cave,’ which is quite awesome. The tree is said to have been brought to the island by the Portuguese, who obtained it for the medicinal purposes for their ponies. Take a walk around the entire perimeter of the tree; you will be surprised at how big it really is.A pigeon house used to keep carrier pigeons, the old school equivalence of a mailing system, is also found on an abandoned plot of land that once served as a prison and later as administrative residences. A concrete device used to wash blood after inmates were tortured is also found relatively intact. A 1906 dated emblem of a British crown can also be found in one of the broken-down buildings. Wild horses are found on roaming the windswept plains of Delft in groups of two or three. They are a living legacy of the Dutch rule, introduced to the island in the 1600s. After the Dutch left the island, the horses were used by the British for transport. The horses are protected by law and it is illegal to remove them from the island. The population of the horses has severely declined over the years, with only a few hundred or so remaining. Around 10% of the population are said to die each year due to lack of fresh water and food. You can get quite close to them; just don’t get your hopes on taming them or riding these wild beauties.

Other attractions

There is believed to be a ‘growing rock’ on the island, which is said to have grown from a little over a foot to over four feet. The growth is most likely attributed to the living coral inside the rock, which continues to grow, although locals have attributed a more mystical meaning to its growth. With remnants of a rich history amidst stunning landscapes and an easy island lifestyle, Delft island remains a treasure trove of adventure and exploration.

A note of caution

There are no restaurants or places to get food (except for a few small shops that sell snacks and drinks) so it is best to take a well-packed meal with you to enjoy on the island. There are also no public bathrooms on the island. It can get very, very hot, so take lots of sunscreen, a hat, water, and wear loose-fitting clothing. (Trekurious together with DailyFT explores Sri Lanka for the curious traveller. Trekurious works with talented individuals and great brands to create amazing experiential tours, activities, and events in Sri Lanka. You can find out more at www.Trekurious.com.)