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Baked modha and salted modha
By Madushka Balasuriya
‘Brunch’ is a portmanteau of breakfast and lunch, it’s eaten during the late morning, and can extend up to three in the afternoon on occasion. The new Sunday Brunch at all-day dining restaurant FLOW stretches this definition somewhat, as it begins a little past late morning – noon to be precise – and goes on until 3 p.m. We will forgive them this minor indiscretion however, as what they offer is arguably the most varied offering of cuisine currently available on this side of the Indian Ocean.
Hilton Colombo Residences’ all-day dining multi-cuisine restaurant FLOW presents itself with a unique open kitchen structure which offers up a selection of Sri Lankan, Indian, Japanese, Western, Thai and Chinese cuisine.
FLOW is situated in the area previously occupied by the old Union Bar & Grill, but any remnants of the older establishment are non-existent. Under General Manager Karim Schadlou, the late night bar vibe has been replaced with a vibrant, open, family-friendly atmosphere, highlighted by the designated kids’ ‘playzone’. This encompasses an activity area with bean bags, video games and other games to keep children entertained. They also have a ‘kids’ buffet section’ to choose from.
As my dining companion and I made our way around the different stations, the sheer choice on offer is what initially caught the eye; however, while there are arguably other brunch selections on offer elsewhere with as much variety, it’s the personal touch and made-to-order approach that sets FLOW apart.
Each of the stations has a designated chef under which the staff all diligently operate. All this is overlooked by eagle-eyed Executive Chef Priyal Wijesuriya, who has been in the role since 2008 and has played an integral part in the restaurant since its design phase.
The stations themselves include a Chinese wok, tandoori oven and a Zesti oven, not to mention the ever-popular cheese wheel, sushi corner and ice cream kottu counter (more on that later).
As you enter the restaurant, on your right is a seating area while on the left is the desert station, its varied selection providing a microcosmic glimpse into what lies ahead. Guests would be wise to also use it as a harbinger of the filling meal to come and not overindulge; it’s always wise to leave room for desert after all.
We were given a tour of the buffet and stations by Assistant Restaurant Manager Ruwan Amarasekara; first was the local and Asian counter and tucked away in a nook in the far left corner is the Dim Sum – a personal favourite which didn’t disappoint. On offer were four varieties of dumplings, including delicious crispy chicken wontons. Right next to the Dim Sum is the Sri Lankan cuisine, presented in traditional clay pots, with pork black curry and lagoon crab curry to boot. My companion and I however begrudgingly opted out of trying the local dishes.
Moving down kitchen number one is the Chinese wok with an option of lobster teriyaki and prawn tempura on the grill. On recommendation, we tried the lobster teriyaki; the favourite crustacean of many a seafood lover was served in bite-size portions, enabling us to ease the meat out of the shell with minimum fuss. The flavour of the teriyaki/lobster combo made this reviewer question why this was the first time he was trying it. The other Chinese dishes included noodles, stir-fried cuttlefish and a black mushroom and bean curd.
Finally, in the first cooking area is the Tandoori oven; Indian food is most certainly not uncommon in Colombo with several establishments having popped up over the last few years, therefore it was pleasing to see the selection consisting of only a few favourite staples. This, however, does not take away from the quality. The soft naan bread and butter chicken masala combination was a match for any full-fledged Indian restaurant, while the cabbage poriyal was also a standout.
Right opposite the Indian counter are the appetisers, salad and sushi. The appetisers, perched on a bed of ice, include fresh oysters, prawns, chilled shooters, and miniature salads. On the opposite side you find the cheese wheel, where your handpicked choice of salad ingredients are tossed in a wheel made of parmesan cheese. Fret not, for those not inclined to put cheese in their salads, there is a non-cheesy option as well.
Sandwiched in between the salads and appetisers is the sushi counter, one of the most popular among regular patrons, according to Chef Priyal. There’s a reasonable selection of sushi and sashimi, which was generally quite good for a restaurant not specialising in it.
Next up was the Western counter. A pasta action station was accompanied by a meat carvery, with a choice of slow roasted leg of lamb with mint red wine jus, baked whole modha fish and salt crusted whole modha with lemongrass curry emulsion. There were also several dishes presented in steel warming pans; from what we tried, the bacon-wrapped chicken sausage was exquisite, the creamy mushroom polenta with blue cheese was an acquired taste, while the beef and root vegetable stew was another favourite.
Having managed not to completely gorge ourselves on the mains, we laboured our way to the desert station. The eclectic selection of items consists of a pancake and waffle station, with a wide selection of toppings. An array of puddings, donuts, tarts, cakes, cupcakes and cheesecakes are also on offer. The centrepiece attraction however is the ice-cream kottu. A host of variations are available, alternated and added to on a weekly basis; I had chocolate ice-cream with roasted cashew nuts, chocolate sauce and broken-up kisses. As for the flavour, think of it as a whole dish comprising of the last bit of your favourite sundae.
FLOW seats 168 guests and when not offering Sunday Brunch, has Executive Lunch options utilising all five stations on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The rest of the week an a la carte menu offering signature dishes is also available.
Overall the experience at FLOW is a unique one, its open kitchens enable guests to see their food being prepared; this also offers the opportunity to customise levels of spice and salt, something not as easily done in other establishments.
The service also needs a mention; staff were sent to Malaysia for hospitality training a year before opening and it showed as our napkins were kept neatly folded every time we made our way from a station, and the kitchen staff were always helpful in the decision-making process. Given its vast selection and impressive Asian cuisine counter, FLOW’s Sunday Brunch is a must-try.
