Saturday, 7 December 2013 00:00
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By Tashiya De Mel
As you make your way through the hectic streets of suburban Kotte, it’s hard to imagine that what is now a bustling town was once a majestic citadel of fortresses, drawbridges, moats, watchtowers, and secret tunnels. The Kotte kingdom flourished during the 15th century for almost 200 years, and while it may not match up to other historical sites like Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, you can still observe a few ruins from this great kingdom, which is so close to the city.
The transformation of Kotte from a frontier fort to a capital city took place towards the end of the 14th century. The city was fortified by King Alakeshwara due to threats of invasion by the King in the north. It was one of the most successful kingdoms at the time in many aspects and was culturally advanced, contributing to what is considered the ‘golden era of Sinhala Literature’. The Kingdom was finally ceded to the Portuguese in 1580 by the weak Prince Dharmapala.
Here are five different sites of historical and archaeological importance in Kotte, each of them a few kilometres apart.
Archaeological Museum
You aren’t allowed to take photos here unless you have a special permit from the Archaeology Department, so be prepared. This museum has a relatively small, but interesting, collection of artefacts. Some of the items don’t have English descriptions so it’s a bit difficult to understand what’s being showcased.
The museum displays clothing, maps, pottery, armour, swords from the Kotte era and many of the items have been donated from the collection of E.W. Perera, the famous freedom fighter, more fondly known as the ‘Lion of Kotte’.
Alakesvara ruins
There are two large foundations here built of ‘kabok’ stone. Artefacts such as grinding stones and water filters have also been unearthed at the site. These mounds were once believed to be the palace of the great King Alakesvara. The premises are locked up but there is usually a caretaker on-site who will open the gate for you and give you details about other significant locations in Kotte.
Beddagana Veherakanda ruins
Mounted on a rectangular foundation, there are two mounds of dagoba-type arrangements made of kabok stone. The structures face the beautiful Diyawanna River and are believed to be the mausoleum of King Parakramabahu VI (the last king to unite all of Sri Lanka under one flag) and his consort, Queen Ranmenika.
Kotte tunnel
The tunnel is located inside the playground of Kotte Ananda Shasthralaya (a local school). When it was in use, the tunnel is said to have had multiple openings that led to and from the palace and was used during enemy attacks and for other Royal activities. The tunnel is currently found in a fenced-off overgrown garden. There’s no description or any details about it, which is a shame given its great historical significance.
Kotte Raja Mahavihara
This lovely temple was originally built by King Parakumba VI but was destroyed by the Portuguese. In 1813, the ancient temple was found in ruins and restored to its present condition. The temple is even has its own tusker in the backyard.
There’s a beautiful yellow entrance adorned with elephants and other symbolic Buddhist designs. The temple also has ancient (I must stress on ancient) drawings of Portuguese men, Sri Lankan kings, and other murals inside.
It’s hard to imagine that such a magnificent empire once existed so close to Colombo! While these sites don’t have much evidence left today, it is still possible to appreciate the few relics and ruins - remains of a kingdom that contributed greatly to Sri Lankan history, culture, and heritage.
(Trekurious together with Weekend FT explores Sri Lanka for the curious traveller. Trekurious works with talented individuals and great brands to create amazing experiential tours, activities, and events in Sri Lanka. You can find out more at www.trekurious.com.)
