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Kandy or ‘Nuwara’ as it is more fondly known by locals is the second largest city in Sri Lanka. The town, centred round a stunning ornamental lake, is nestled in lush hill country forming the southern tip of the Cultural Triangle.
Kandy was once the proud capital of Sri Lanka and to this day, the spirit of a great kingdom still lingers. There’s a display of beautiful colonial and neo-colonial infused architecture, extravagant temple complexes (including the temple of the tooth), museums, and national parks. It is a bustling yet, scenic city, where the locals proudly hold on to their rich ancestral past and welcome visitors with a warm smile.
Hidden in the crooks of the busy streets are forgotten colonial treasures and architectural masterpieces that once stood tall and proud in this ancient kingdom. Kandy is a grid city, made up of about three main grids built with interlocking lanes and roads that dissect each other. This makes it an ideal place for a walking. And what better way to explore the hidden gems of Kandy than by foot?
Our walk begins on one of the main streets where we meet our host, Ruchira, a professionally-qualified architect, with her own practice in Kandy for the past eight years. We soon learn that she is well-versed with the layout of the city and she spends her free time walking around her hometown.
As we walk the narrow pavements congested with pedestrians, our attention is drawn to the colourful Kataragama devale built away from the rest of the Temple of the Tooth devales. This devale features the warrior-god, Kataragama, worshiped by both Hindus and Buddhists although, the temple in Kandy is definitely more Hindu than Buddhist in appearance.
According to popular belief, Kandy is protected by four gods, each with their own temple in the city. The temples are dedicated to a specific god, besides Lord Buddha: Natha, Vishnu, Kataragama and Pattini.
Vishnu is one of the supreme gods of Hinduism, and it’s often wondered why Hindu gods are featured in Buddhist temples. Sri Lankan Buddhism frequently borrows from Hinduism, because of the country’s closely-intertwined history with India. Many of the ancient Sinhalese Kings also married Indian queens and thus, maintained a close relationship with Hindu gods and religion.
The four devales have a long association with the Royal Palaces and the Temple of the Tooth. Natha, Vishnu and Pattini are all located next to or near the main temple.
Natha is the only purely Buddhist god of the four protectors of Kandy, and this devale (built by King Vickramabahu III in the 14th Century) is the oldest surviving structure from the Kandyan Kingdom. It is situated directly in front of the Temple of the Tooth and it is a great example of Darvidian architecture.
Because of the god’s importance, in the past, the new Kings of Kandy were obligated to appear at this temple to claim a name before ascending to the throne. The main shrine is ancient and beautiful from the outside, though its interior is a bit of a letdown.
Ruchira also takes us to the markets, buzzing with eager customers determined to make the best bargain. There’s a mélange of products from your everyday fruits and veggies, to plastic toys, shiny jewellery, and household items. Whether you’re keen to buy something or not, the atmosphere of the markets and the excited buzz is definitely worth observing.
We walk along Colombo Street, which is famous for its vegetable shops. Why it’s named after Colombo still remains a mystery.
We stop by the Ismail clock tower, a historical monument that marks the centre of the Kandy city, located on Dalada Veediya (meaning road to the temple). It is a common meeting place for locals and those travelling by bus.
The clock tower was built in 1950 by the Ismail family (whose business can be found opposite the clock tower) in memory of their son who was killed in a tragic car accident in August 1947. The machinery and equipment needed to construct the tower were imported from the UK and the design is influenced by the Kandyan style and incorporates elements of the Temple of the Tooth and the palace of the King of Kandy on its facade.
As we proceed on our walk, Ruchira hands out interesting facts about the town. I was quite fascinated to find that the roads in Kandy were originally built to fit exactly three elephants and two torch bearers. She also points out the odd structure of Kandyan roofs, which are designed in tiers so that rain water doesn’t fall right down, but falls in levels, easing the flow of water in times of heavy downpours. We are also shown the first post office to be built outside Colombo by the Dutch. The building still operates to this day.
Our perfect walk around Kandy ends at the Mlesna Tea Centre, where we sit down, relax and enjoy a cuppa!
(Trekurious together with the Daily FT explores Sri Lanka for the curious traveller. Trekurious works with talented individuals and great brands to create amazing experiential tours, activities, and events in Sri Lanka. You can find out more at www.Trekurious.com.)
