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Saturday, 25 January 2014 00:00 - - {{hitsCtrl.values.hits}}
After driving through flat landscapes of terraced paddy fields, forests, and lakes, the sudden appearance of Mulkirigala rock rising perpendicularly into the air, comes as a surprise.
This majestic monolith lies off the beaten track, towering 680 feet above the Hambantota District. The rock bears some resemblance Sigiriya and houses an impressive series of cave paintings, much like those at Dambulla Rock Temple. Its similarity with two of the country’s most iconic locations, coupled with its historical significance and unrivalled setting, makes it a must-see.
History in a nut shell
The rock temple has a rich history tracing as far back as the first century BC. Much of its history has been learned from carved inscriptions on the sides of the rock, written in Sanskrit and ancient Sinhalese text. The temple is also referred to as Mulkirigala Raja Mahaviharaya.
The inscriptions on the rock indicate that numerous kings such as King Saddatissa (137 BC-118 BC) and King Datusena (461-479 AD) built stupas and relics on the rock. A Bo sapling from the sacred Bo tree is said to have been planted atop the rock by King Mahanaya (King Devanampiyatissa’s brother). Internal conflicts and neglect resulted in the temple being damaged and restored several times over the years.
The present development began in the 1700s with King Kirti Sri Raja Singha. Today, the rock has been transformed to a religious complex consisting of a stupa, Bo tree, shrine rooms, rock caves, preaching halls, and resident quarters for Buddhist monks.
As you look up to the summit, it seems like a long journey. The thought of climbing 500 carved steps barefoot is another challenge. However, as you begin the ascent on the steep rock face, the surrounding beauty soon captures your attention. The rock temple is levelled into four terraces each compromising of different religious elements.
The first terrace comprises of a Bo tree, stupa, and twin cave temples with two 14 metre Buddha statues in the state of Parinirvana. Images of Hindu deities such as, Lord Vishnu are also found. The interior walls and ceilings of the caves are covered in stunning Buddhist depictions and designs painted with vibrant earth pigments. These paintings have been layered with newer colours over the years but are said to date back more than 300 years.
A steep ascent takes you up a flight of steps hewn from the solid rock to reach the third and largest terrace where the four cave temples are located. The main temple houses a recumbent Buddha statue 15 metres in length. It is believed to be one of the 64 temples erected by King Kavantissa, father of King Dutugemunu (161-136 BC) of Ruhuna. The rest of the cave temples contain statues, figurines, paintings and designs portraying different aspects of Lord Buddha’s life.
A large antique wooden cupboard stands on display at the entrance of the main cave temple. It was here that the key commentary of the Mahavansaa was discovered in 1827 by a British administrator, George Turner. It was Turner’s translation of the text that made the vast repository of knowledge found in Pali text accessible to English scholars.
Beyond the cupboard, a remarkable faded mural from the early Kandyan period (18th century) stands out. Painted in the national colours, its depictions have been updated with a touch of colonial influence. It is said to be the only known mural to feature a bare breasted female drummer in Sri Lanka.
A panoramic view from the third terrace of the summit reveals the surrounding village area. Grassy fields, hillocks and ponds stretch out for miles.
(Trekurious together with DailyFT explores Sri Lanka for the curious traveller. Trekurious works with talented individuals and great brands to create amazing experiential tours, activities, and events in Sri Lanka. You can find out more at www.Trekurious.com.)
