Parangis in three-wheelers

By Aysha Maryam Cassim

When the Dutch ousted the Portuguese in 1658, they left a significant cultural imprint that changed and enriched many spheres of Ceylonese culture. Beginning from the 16th century, the European colonial powers made an impact in many aspects of the life of the islanders.

The Portuguese, unlike the later Dutch and British, integrated well with the locals. They intermarried with the daughters of the land, birthed a new language, Sri Lanka Portuguese Creole, which flourished as a lingua franca in the island for over three-and-a-half centuries.

Today the Creole is a dying language. But the Portuguese contributed to the evolution of Sinhala with loan words. They also exerted a vigorous approach in changing the educational and religious institution of the country. The consequences of being a victim of rapacious Western colonialism for a period of nearly 450 years were outright abominable. Centuries after, we are still getting over its scars while enjoying the cultural leftovers and traces that were left behind our first colonials.

In February, 2016 I decided to make a tour around the Iberian Peninsula in an attempt to rekindle the bilateral relationships with the ancestors of fellow Parangi Silvas, Fernandos and Pereras. After 14 days journeying around Spain, I set out to on a two-day trip to Lisbon, the capital of Portugal. 

Lisbon has its distinctive European charm. This historical city resonates a melancholic aura and an architectural peculiarity through its colonial buildings and cobble-stoned streets. Everywhere you go, there is some unheard history waiting to be unfolded. I was in search for a Ceylonese element, finding a long-lost connection, a taste from the colonial past that shares a close affinity to my country...  then my eyes caught the sight of a bright red tuk-tuk.

The classic red three-wheeler (or the Red Riding Tuk as I would like to call it) dominates the roads of Sri Lanka today. The omnipresent three-wheelers in Sri Lanka have evolved into successful mobile business over the years. Yet, it remains in its noble place as the common man’s ultimate transporter. Rich or poor, local or foreign, rain or sunshine the tuk-tuk will take you to your desired destination with no hassle. 

The tuk-tuk is the Southeast Asian version of a vehicle known elsewhere as an auto, trishaw, rickshaw or cabin cycle. Some Sri Lankans refer to it as the “Wheel”.  It is a widely-used form of urban transport in many major Southeast Asian and South Asian cities. 

Surviving the gridlock in Colombo is a daunting task. Tuk-tuks are very manoeuvrable and can turn around in one lane of traffic with room to spare.  When Colombo roads choke with the congestion during peak hours, tuk-tuks come to the commuter’s rescue as an accessible taxi service that could get you anywhere in a jiffy.

Who knows, if James Bond were Sri Lankan, he would chose to do his interurban missions in a tuk-tuk, probably a high-tech three-wheeler with innovative engineering features. Reggae, Che Guevara quotes as bumper stickers, the black sheet metal body will be outfitted with ornate tin ornamental hammering. Don’t be surprised if they are embedded with machine guns, tire shredders, an oil sprayer and of course an ejector seat.

Lisbon is port city of faded beauty famous for its network of trams and funiculars. The ornately tiled facades have welcomed a surge of tourists and tuk-tuks in recent years. The tuk-tuk invasion has led to a transport war with the city’s taxi drivers. The light three-wheeled commercial vehicle can accommodate at least four to six travellers. 

Today, downtown Lisbon is swarmed with these vibrant motorised vehicles. The arrival of the tuk-tuk cars to Lisbon has offered the possibility for tourists to interact with natives and share a small road trip with enthusiastic like-minded backpackers.  By opting for a customised eco-friendly tuk-tuk tour plan from a range of circuits, the traveller gets the opportunity to savour the beauty of the streets without the strenuous efforts of walking.

Lisboêtas have a love and hate relationship with the three-wheelers. The city dwellers do not fancy them mainly due to the sound pollution that it produces throughout the day. 

According to an article published by the New York Times, on 26 October 2015: “Lisbon’s Mayor Fernando Medina announced restrictions on tuk-tuks, which will limit the hours in which they can operate and the places they can park. The new rules will even put some streets out of bounds for tuk-tuks, as well as require the vehicles to run on electric engines by 2017.”

The oldest neighbourhoods of Lisbon like Alfama and Mouraria offer breath-taking viewpoints for tourists. The tram-way routes rumbles through alleyways, small squares, souvenir shops, boutiques and dozens of eateries and bars that line the narrow streets of the historical quarters. Travelling around Lisbon in a small, open-topped, quaint three-wheelers permits you to discover the fascinating nooks and corners of the city. If you head towards Terreiro do Paço, you would find plenty of docked tuk-tuks, parangis lounging in their driving seats, some having a good siesta in the sultry afternoon, the rest busy negotiating with the tourists.

Lisbon has all the flavours that satisfies the whims of a wayfarer. You can navigate the city’s most slender streets in multitude of ways. Of course, the real enjoyment of exploring new spaces and places comes from walking. 

But, sometimes you have to cut down on the strenuous legwork and give a breather to your well-travelled feet. The steep hills of Lisbon demands arduous climbs, but you can always take a tram, boat, segway or tuk-tuk to get about in Lisbon.

Tuk-tuk, a three-wheeled vehicle with Italian origins, was designed by Vespa creator Corradino D’Ascanio, as an economical way to rebuild city transportation after the devastation of World War II. The Tukxi, an Italian Piaggio Tri-Vespa, served as a practical mode of transportation for most Italians who were terribly affected by the war. 

Although the three-wheeler is not a common sight in Europe anymore, tuk-tuks have become almost as symbolic as Lisbon’s yellow trams, adding more charm against the colonial backdrop of this historically beautiful old port city.