Paris, the City of Love and Lights

By Aysha Maryam Cassim

‘Paris’ conjures up images of love. It’s a city that strikes as a place where joie de vivre is everywhere. This love transcends beyond the Tumblr-perfect moments of meandering walks along the River Seine. 

Hollywood movies idealised Paris as the epicentre of the Romanticism. Yes, the city can seduce us with its sensual ambience. There’s a certain allure to this aesthetically charming capital, which makes it one of the most sought-after destinations for honeymoons by couples from all corners of the world. 

Parisians have a constant fascination, sometimes a fixation with their fine vin, fromage, fashion and architecture. But the contemporary Paris doesn’t live up to its overrated clichés. You would seldom spot men in striped shirts and berets, sitting around all day in a terasse with a coffee and cigarette in hand, discussing politics or art. In this densely populated city, the average Parisian can either be white or black, unemployed or a man with a moneyed lifestyle.

I’ve been having a romantic affair with Paris and France since the ‘Bonsoir’ days on Rupavahini. As a francophone, I would dream about this city of love and lights through its mellifluous language and La Nouvelle Vague cinéma. Years later, I visited Paris to revisit the sets and scenes of Kumar De Silva’s Bonsoir Diaries and my all-time favourite French classic ‘Le fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain’ along Paris’ boulevards and boulangeries. 

My three-day séjour in Paris was not a quintessentially Parisienne experience. I did not wake up to a view of La Tour Eiffel and indulge in a lavish breakfast on the balcony. Nor did I share a passionate embrace under the Pont-Marie with mon amour. 

Paris can be overwhelming and expensive for the first time traveller. The city exudes an elegant flair. But not all the delights come at a hefty price. This is how I saw Paris on a pilgrimage to find La Vie en Rose and the recipe of romance. I was left disappointed, delighted and intimidated at the same time.

 

Arc de Triomphe 

Our sightseeing walk started from The Place Charles de Gaulle. Twelve straight Avenues converge on this square in a completely symmetrical pattern. In an aerial view, it looks like the lights shining out from a star. 

At the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and the western end of the Champs-Élysées stands the famous large triumphal arch known as The Arc de Triomphe. This structure was erected in honour of those who died and fought in the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars.

From the Arc de Triomphe it’s an easy walk to the Eiffel Tower of about 20-25 minutes. Although I wish I had taken the metro to Trocadéro station for a stunning water mirror shot of the Eiffel Tower, the view of Eiffel tower from Pont de L’Alma did not disappoint me. 

At the Place de l’Alma, you’ll find Flamme de la Liberté – a replica of the Torch from the Statue of Liberty. This bronze sculpture was placed here in 1987 as a symbol of friendship between France and the USA. When Diana, Princess of Wales was tragically killed in a car accident in the tunnel beneath Pont de l’Alma, the iconic Flame became a de facto memorial to her death.

La Grande Dame en Fer – The Eiffel Tower

 We continued our walk towards the end of the Champ de Mars, till our eyes met Gustave Eiffel’s magnificent tower. Inaugurated in 1889, La Tour Eiffel was supposed to serve as the entrance arch for The World Exhibition. Followed by much citric and praise, this engineering wonder later turned out to become a symbol of Paris’ architectural atmosphere, which is not missed by any first-time visitor to the city. 

The park at Champs de Mars makes an amorous setting for a picnic where you can enjoy the view of Eiffel Tower in between the croissant and a chocolat chaud. On 29 February 2016, I was also fortunate enough to witness the last day of shooting of ‘Overdrive’. The 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO that I saw near the Parc du Champ de Mars was apparently a part of a scene from an upcoming French action thriller film where Scot Eastwood plays a lead role along with his co-star Gaia Weiss. 

Notre Dame, Louvre and Montmartre

Paris’ panoramic views serve as a backdrop to create memories that will last an eternity. As the sun sets in Paris’ 7th arrondissement, the streets are imbued with a surge of incandescence and chaos. 

Paris is for flâneurs, who love to walk along its promenades. We strolled along the Pont d’Iéna, watching Bateaux Mouches cruise along the eternally beautiful Seine. The beautiful belle époque-style carousel standing at the corner of the Pont d’Iéna and Quai Branly will invite you for a ride on the merry-go-round. Five or 25, you will be thrilled to live a fleeting moment in a fairy-tale like dream right next to the Eiffel tower. 

After a late lunch at the Quartier Latin, we visited La Cathédrale de Notre Dame, the home of Quasimodo in Victory Hugo’s novel The Hunchback of Notre-Dame. Every year, 13 million visitors come to witness the glory of this masterpiece of Gothic architecture. 

En route to Louvre from Notre Dame, is the Pont Neuf – ‘New bridge’, the bridge that traverses the western tip of the Ile de la Cité. You can get sweeping views of Pont Neuf, spanning the Seine between the Right and Left Banks from the Ponte des Arts footbridge near the Louvre. This bridge was once famous for the love locks shackled to bridge’s railings. 

The first day out in Paris came to an end in the lovely district of Montmartre. Perched atop a hill to the north of Paris’s city centre, the neighbourhood around Sacré-Cœur is ideally located for exploring the artistic side of Paris. Montmartre boasts a thriving bohemian culture that is a world apart from metropolitan Paris. 

In the early 1880s, famous artists like Dali, Money, Mondrian, Picasso and Vincent van Gogh set up their studios in this picturesque colony. Today, the quaint sidewalks are lined with bistros, souvenir boutiques, painters, portraitists, and caricaturists.

La Chapelle

On my second day in Paris, I took the off beaten path over to the 10th arrondissement. ‘Little Jaffna’ is a neighbourhood in La Chapelle bursting with multicultural colours of Sri Lanka and South India. I was greeted by fellow Tamil-speaking Jaffna Sri Lankans who suggested that I should treat myself to a hearty Sri Lankan meal at one of the famous Sri Lankan eateries in the area. You’d be surprised if I tell you that I had the best cheese kottu in La Chapelle, Paris. 

Midnight in Paris

During the midnight or stark daylight, Paris has a notorious reputation for tourist scams and metro pickpockets. It will only take a few seconds of distraction to get robbed and mugged in this bustling city. I have personally experienced the famous Ring and Petition Scam, which is apparently very prevalent around the Eiffel Tower. I survived their ingenious tricks but as a tourist, it’s advisable not to look vulnerable for potential theft. Ignore the bystanders who approach you for small talk asking you “do you speak English?” and politely walk away.

The RER train between Charles de Gaulle Airport and central Paris and the metro line 2 are prime hunting grounds for pickpockets, especially during rush hour. I was told not to underestimate the thieves of Paris. They can be young and look impeccably dressed with prying eyes waiting to get their catch of the day. 

La Fin – The séjour comes to an end

My trip to Paris wouldn’t have been complete without spending a day at Disneyland Paris! It was a spontaneous decision encouraged by few of the Jaffna friends whom I met in Père Lachaise. I couldn’t have asked for a better way to say Au Revoir to Paris than getting lost in the labyrinth of Alice’s wonderland, cruising along the winding routes of Autopia, soaring high in the sky on aboard Dumbo the Flying Elephant and embarking on Jules Verne’s adrenaline-filled journey into outer space on Space Mountain-Mission 2.

‘Paris est toujours une bonne idée’ – Paris is always a good idea – Audrey Hepburn as Sabrina Fairchild, Sabrina (1954).

Maybe I will return to Paris for escargots and to visit the Catacombs of Paris and Marche aux puces next time. It’s city that worth a second visit.