The one and only Dr. Publis

To serve the same institution for 60 years at a stretch and still going strong is not something that many can boast about. And to start right at the bottom and go right to the top is a greater achievement. Not only to be virtually synonymous with his workplace but to put the country in the world map is a great service – that too in a rather unusual area – cooking.

The rare type of individual is Dr. T. Publis Silva, Director – Culinary Affairs, Mount Lavinia Hotel. To everyone, he is chef Publis. The Master Chef of all times in Sri Lanka.

A recent release from the hotel on the occasion of Publis completing 60 years sums up his career. He was not even 20 years old when he joined the hotel as a coal carrier, dragging the heavy gunny bags of coal used for the kitchen stove. In addition he had to scrape 80 coconuts along with another kitchen hand. 

The kitchen became his second home. He was a good worker – dedicated to the tasks given. The head cook liked him. He taught him to cook. He was a good learner. Gradually he climbed the ladder until he became Head Chef. 

I remember meeting him a few years back to do a feature on local dishes served in the hotel for breakfast. By then he was Director. Clad in his usual white top and dark trousers, Publis took me to his little office where we sat and had a good chat.

He was so simple and amiable – prepared to spend time with me. Then he took me around showing me the finish of the egg hoppers and the neat string hoppers. Top quality, good looks and of course, the right mix of curries to go with them, had made the typical local breakfast very popular. 

A keen researcher he has studied the ‘rajya bhoijana’ – the royal menu of the ancient Sinhalese kings. He has gone into the details of how the different types of leaves like ‘karapincha’ and ‘rampe’ and the numerous spices added to the dishes we prepare are beneficial to one’s health. “We have got used to throwing away most of these without eating, thereby not using their value,” he has often pointed out.

Chef Publis has always been willing to share his knowledge. He has authored 23 books – possibly a record for a chef. He certainly has the record for the tiniest cookery book - 1cm X 1cm in size, only five milligrams in weight with 42 recipes of the ‘Royal meals of the last Kings of Sri Lanka’. He entered the Guinness Book of Records for creating the largest and longest ‘kiribath’ dish.

He has taken part in food festivals throughout the world and has been a worthy ambassador of Sri Lankan cuisine. 

Recognition for his efforts has come in the form of many an award. At the inaugural Presidential Awards for Travel & Tourism in 2007, he was crowned the Exceptional Individual of the Year’. He has been honoured with an Honorary Doctorate.

Publis calls Mount Lavinia Hotel his home. An early riser (once he said he gets up at 3:30 in the morning), after his regular ‘kola kenda’ drink, religious observances and breakfast he is at work by 6:30. 

Commitment, determination, hard work and loyalty have brought him to the present position. Closing in on 80, he is young enough to be the simple, amiable easy-to-approach consultant on matters relating to culinary arts for many more years.