The unmapped road to Wanni

Periyamadu is a remote village located in the North East of Mannar. We set out from Madu Church and headed towards our destination looking forward to experience a weekend in the wilderness. 

A village in the jungle that conserves a stunning biodiversity and a place not traversed by many, we knew that this adventure would give us a life-defining experience.

Periyamadu is a strategically important area in the Wanni region owing to the Periyamadu Lake and due to its proximity to Mannar and Kilinochchi. As a result, this area was under LTTE control for a considerable period of time during the war. Security forces regained control of this area in 2008 after heavy fighting. 

We learnt through folklore that the present-day Periyamadu area had been used to quarantine malaria patients during the British Era.

The Convoy

I must admit that the road to Periyamadu felt like a Top Gear special and you would probably think that only a four-wheel driver could cross off-roads. We doubted whether a Peugeot 406 was capable of fording the muddy trails and drive through almost 40 kilometres through the dense jungle along so inhospitable a road. But my brother decided to put his Peugeot through its paces. With much gusto, he forged through the dense jungle; forded ginormous pot holes and traversed muddy cliffs. 

On our way, we spotted a lone pick-up truck hurtling along the battered road a few hundred meters ahead of us. We saw a swarm of white butterflies covering the roadsides like a sheet of yellow speckles. While immersing ourselves with this breath-taking scenery through our shutters we had to keep an eye on the road for bulls crossing. Despite all odds, we reached the destination. Surprisingly, we survived; and so did the wheels.

FYI: If you are a biker, this would be the ideal location to show off your nifty stunts.

The Great Outdoors

The best way to start the day is to get out and walk. Imagine strolling through an arbour-like foliage of trees, pulling over to take a breather under old shady nuga trees and snap Instagrammic scenes. Away from urban commotion, our only encounters with civilisation were the occasional army Range Rover Defenders and nearby villagers on their red Honda CT90s (Thapal 90). 

The unpolluted air was a nectar for our bodies. I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of greens in the thick forests surrounding us. This place was such bliss. We simply couldn’t get enough of the greenery in the Madu reserve. 

Fruits of the Wild 

The surrounding Madu reserve was abundant with seasonal wild fruits like Weera and Pada Gedi. This was the first time I had Weera (Drypetes Sepiaria), a succulent red berry that is a treat for sloth bears who frequent the forest during the season. 

Pada Gedi (Wild Water Melon) is a fruit with many Ayurvedic benefits. The name sounded rather funny because pada in Sinhala means ‘fart’. A few of my fellow Instagrammers gave their interesting opinions on the etymology of this fruit:

“It is called so because when you smack it into a wall, it gives a sound which is similar to a fart noise?” – @Ashenr2

“We call it ‘Thannisorupalam’ in Tamil. Thanni = water, Soru = Rice. People travel through dry zone those days used to have it on their way like a refreshing agent” – @rakshysdeen

The Wilderness

Pride Land at Periyamdu Forest Reserve

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Where the Wild Elephants Wander

“All truly great thoughts are conceived by walking,” said Friedrich Nietzsche. Walking amidst the forest was quite fun until I stumbled upon a pile of elephant dung. We were told that elephants wander in the dark tangled thickets of bushes at the marshy ponds. The droppings of wild elephants did seem fresh, not older than a week according to the survey done by my brother. 

As the sun was receding into the horizon, the atmosphere started to feel eerie. We were aware of the perils that lay ahead. Fortunately, we had a torchbearer, a guide armed with weapons and light. We kept walking through the footpath. We crossed wild, densely overgrown swamps. We plucked Esala flowers on our way back to our chalet. The drowsy sound of trees rustling in the breeze lulled us into sleep.

The chirp of birds will wake you up on time to witness the dawn of a new day and nocturnal moths will be attracted towards your chalet just as soon as darkness draws near. In order to escape from the creepy crawlies at night, I sought refuge under my mosquito net! Although there weren’t any mosquitoes, the roofs and the windowsill were entryways for all sorts of unheard and unseen insects. 

Going to the washroom was quite an adventure. We had to examine the space for frogs that were seeking a cosier nook for the night. I found the frogs and gigantic geckos and lizards to be the biggest harmless threat in the wilderness.

Periyamadu Lake is atmospheric. The unpolluted waterfront has seen the good, the bad and the ugly over the years. But now the water is quaint and calm, as the war has ended. It’s a desolately beautiful place where you can extract the essences of nature which will nourish all senses. 

The scenery became even more sensational at dawn and dusk. This was the perfect moment to experience Mother Nature at her finest! I genuinely felt like I belonged to the pride land in Lion King. Periyamadu boasts effortless vistas worth viewing and photographing. The simple setting with stunning views was an ideal and idyllic location to wallow in the evening sun sipping a ginger plain tea.

Birds of Paradise

Dawn at Periyamadu

Birds of Paradise 

Ornithologists who have a knack for spotting the camouflaged flying fowls will find Periyamadu the place to be. We spent two nights at the lake retreat of Periyamadu where we experienced an extravagant safari expedition.

Those who are pining to explore the Madu reserve can take the unmapped road to Periyamadu. The most convenient starting point is the hospital junction near the Madu church.

We saw animals in their natural habitats, indulged in a relaxing fish spa treatment in the evening, had homemade pancakes with juggery, and had fresh seafood dinner to end our day.

Surviving with no stable phone signals and having no access to reach out to the world of the internet was quite challenging for us. Nonetheless, we needed a detox to refuel our souls – and this was the perfect therapy.