Neduntheevu, the hidden jewel of tourism in Sri Lanka’s north

Saturday, 10 August 2024 00:03 - - {{hitsCtrl.values.hits}}

The time will come when Delft becomes a premium tourism destination

By Jekhan Aruliah

We took a trip to Delft (Neduntheevu), the famous little seen jewel in Jaffna’s bright constellation of islands. Thrice distant 10 times bigger than the many templed much visited Nainativu (aka Nagadeepa), Delft is best known for its wild ponies. An unkempt unkept herd munching on the unkept unkempt Delft grasslands.

There is far more to Delft than the little horses. But nobody seems to care. Ruins are supposed to be ruined. But the signboards setup at the sites were more ruined than the ruins. Signboards which to fix would take an hour and Rs. 10 k (£ 25; $ 30) were battered, faded nearly illegible, fallen down and propped against stones. At least someone took the trouble to prop them up. Kudos to that public servant, or perhaps that passing German tourist, who took the trouble to pick up and position them.

One of the few touristic bright spots is the Delft Village stay – Delftjks pvt ltd. It is well aimed at its target market: those who seek hostels and camping type accommodation. With a stable of decent bicycles, JKS Village Stay will organise everything from a private boat to Delft and back, and a van to take you around the island. I have never spent a night, but have had great meals and fresh toddy here and enjoyed the services they arranged of that boat and that van. But if you are looking for an airconditioned luxury “glampsite” with well sprung mattresses then this isn’t the place.

Actually if you are looking for a bit of luxury, there isn’t any on Delft. I am reliably informed one of Sri Lanka’s leading premium hotel chains tried to open a property on Delft but was refused by the authorities (not sure which authority, there are so many hoops to jump). A financially strong hotel chain would not only have built a fancy property, it would have attracted high spending tourists and lifted tourism across the island. Creating direct and indirect jobs. But it was turned away.

The locals are leaving. Tourists are hardly coming. It takes a strong sense of humour to recommend the dreadful experience on the public boat. Our guide said pre-war the population exceeded 20,000 now it’s close to 4,000. The biggest single employer apart from military service is probably the military. The Navy opened a garment factory employing 50+ locals to make their uniforms.

The time will come I am sure when Delft becomes a premium tourism destination. It has all the ingredients: a reasonable 30 minutes from the mainland on a decent boat (one hour on the available boat); historic sites; great beaches; fresh seafood. Yes, and ponies. But it doesn’t have the entrepreneurs and visionaries to make that leap. Those that did come were turned away.

It’s hard to see another great opportunity for Delft than tourism. An opportunity that will give the locals a decent living so they stay and develop the island rather than abandon it to the benefit of outsiders.