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Today, as you traverse the sacred grounds, you tread upon the footsteps of history, guided by the silent whispers of ancient stones 

  • This article is part of a series of research based articles published in this page to promote integrated models of tourism that cut across different dynamics related to intangible cultural heritage, peacebuilding and comparative spirituality

By Don De Silva 

High atop a rugged mountain, cloaked in the dense embrace of the forests in Ampara in eastern Sri Lanka, a silent sentinel stands against the march of time. Carved into the ancient heart of a weathered rock lies a message, enduring and profound, echoing across millennia.

In the ancient Brahmi script, written between 2 to 1 BCE, 10 words resound with a silent declaration:

“Ye ima dipa paṭamaya idiya agatana Iḍika-[tera-Ma] hida-teraha tube”

Translated into English, these words whisper a tale of ages past: 

“This is the stupa of the elder Ittiya and the elder Mahinda, who came to this Island by its foremost good fortune.”

(Inscription 468: Inscriptions of Ceylon Volume 1) 

Such terse, matter-of-fact, simple elegance. A mere 10 words, stands as a testament to the historical tapestry of Sri Lanka, validating the arrival of Mahinda Thero, son of Emperor Asoka of India, and his retinue, heralds of the Buddha’s Dhamma to this resplendent isle. Their arrival, etched in rock, not only resulted in the spread of Buddhism in the country, but also the recording and preserving the teachings of the Buddha, which now — out of Sri Lanka — impacts the world. 

Inscribed upon the very bosom of Rajagala, meaning the Monarch’s Rock, this declaration buttresses the ancient chronicles of Sri Lanka, where the Dipavamsa and the Mahavamsa describe reports of Mahinda Thero’s journey, his teachings, and his pivotal encounter with King Devanampiyatissa.

A mine of information

The many Brahmi text inscriptions of the Prakrit language, used in ancient India and Sri Lanka, are a mine of information. They not only provide information about the social, political and economic situations down the ages, but also validate watersheds, concerning the progress of Buddhism, which are of global relevance. Professor Siran Deraniyagala, a legend who restored Sri Lankan history, and Dr. M. Abeyratne, in their paper on “Radiocarbon Chronology of Anuradhapura”, points to evidence that the Brahmi script was used in Sri Lanka during 7 to 5 BCE. 

The inscriptions, numbered and presented in publications, have been lifted through a process called estampage, with the original in Brahmi and translated into English.

Dr. Dammi Bandara, a senior official within Sri Lanka’s Department of Archaeology and an expert in both the Prakriti language and the Brahmi script, explained that the estampage is a process, used in epigraphy to obtain an exact replica of an inscription etched in a rock. Firstly, the rock inscription is carefully cleaned. Then the stone surface is covered with layers of wet paper. Indian ink, usually black, is smeared on the paper, which is then left to dry on the stone surface. After drying, the paper is taken off slowly – and you get the ink impression (estampage) — white lettering against a dark, black background.

The construction of the Rajagala rock temple emerges as a testament to the vision and patronage of Prince Lanja Tissa, later King (119-109 BCE). Amidst the ancient chronicles of Sri Lanka, the annals recount the prince’s fervent dedication to the propagation of Buddhism and continued support after he sat on the throne. 

The mountain is shaped like a crocodile, hence the name Girikumbhila or Crocodile Mountain. In the shadow of the mountain, the young prince envisioned a sanctuary that would stand as a beacon of enlightenment for generations to come. With unwavering resolve, he marshalled resources and labour, overseeing the birth of a monastic complex that would echo with the sound of affirmative chanting, the calmness of meditation, and the teachings of Buddha Dhamma. 

When you quietly walk about the historical monuments, observe the tall stone pillars that once held a dining room, a meeting hall, and a storage place, you marvel at the way they have been spaced and constructed. 

Every facet of construction bears the imprint of a deeply committed Prince, a testament to his reverence for the Buddha’s teachings and his unwavering commitment to the welfare of his people. And as the Rajagala complex rose from the earth, it bore witness to the prince’s legacy, a sanctuary of peace amidst the rugged majesty of Sri Lanka’s Eastern Province.

Cloaked in antiquity, this sprawling expanse of 1,600 acres harbours secrets within its labyrinth of ruins and monastic vestiges. There are stories still to be discovered and brought to the light. 

Amidst the whispers of forgotten epochs 

Here, amidst the whispers of forgotten epochs, the monastery bears witness to a legacy steeped in meditation and noble traditions.

Some 500 monks once sought refuge within its many caves, their voices echoing the timeless wisdom of the Tipițaka.

Yet, buried beneath layers of soil and neglect, the monastery lay dormant until 2011, when a joint effort between Sri Lanka’s Department of Archaeology and the University of Sri Jayewardenepura embarked upon the arduous task of restoration.

With each step, the ancient pathways reveal tales of kings and noblemen, their patronage sustaining the monastery’s noble endeavour. Villages, fields, and golden coins flowed like offerings to sustain this bastion of wisdom and compassion.

Through meticulous excavation, Rajagala’s significance emerges, not merely as a relic of antiquity, but as a testament to the enduring spirit of Buddhism. 

An official paper, submitted by the Sri Lankan Government to UNESCO, says that Rajagala has also been identified as Ariyakara Viharaya. The Rajagala mendicants were reputed for focusing on the set of discourses in the Tipțaka or the Early Buddhist Texts, called “Ariyawamsa”, the noble traditions, for example, Numbered Discourses 4.28 Aṅguttara Nikāya 4.28. 

Today, as you traverse the sacred grounds, you tread upon the footsteps of history, guided by the silent whispers of ancient stones. And in the quiet serenity of Rajagala, amidst its storied ruins and majestic vistas, the legacy of Mahinda Thero challenges us to commit to disseminate the noble teachings of the Buddha Dhamma to a troubled world.

#buddhism #EngagedBuddhism #UNESCO

Note: Grateful thanks to staff at Sri Lanka’s Department of Archaeology, both at Rajagala and Colombo, for their invaluable assistance. 

Professor Siran Deraniyagala and Dr. M. Abeyratne: paper on “Radiocarbon Chronology of Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka: A Revised Age Estimate”, published by South Asian Archaeology 1997

Ancient Ariyakara Viharaya in the Rajagala Archaeological Project Submitted by: Permanent Delegation of Sri Lanka to UNESCO

Date of Submission: 27/02/2020

https://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/6454/

 

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