EDB aims at developing local crafts through Design Fest

By Cheranka Mendis

 The future of local crafts and the apparel industry is now shining bright and is all ready to secure a place in the world market. With the likes of Sri Lanka Design Festival being organised in the country, the Export Development Board is confident that the boost needed to place Sri Lanka on the international map for crafts and apparel industry is now in the making.

Meeting Daily FT, Chairman Export Development Board, Janaka Rathnayake speaks of EDB’s role in Sri Lanka Design Festival abbreviated as SLDF, the local craft industry and EDB’s future expectations of the industry.



Q: Where does Sri Lanka Design Festival fit into EDB’s agenda?



A: EDB being the apex organisation for development and promotion of exports has been instrumental in implementing a number of programmes which have contributed immensely towards the development of the export sector. This is so both in product development and market promotion. We are at present more dynamic and focused in our outlook in export promotion. We are constantly on the lookout for new and innovative approaches in order to focus on the ever changing need of the international market.

Also we have to widen the marketing focus of identified export industries with high value addition to position and differentiate our products in the international niche market. Therefore, it is important for Sri Lanka to build fashion and creative culture that innovative new products, business models and services. This is especially so for the apparel sector which is the fore runner export industry and the creative craft industry which play a vital role in the economic mainstream of the country.

Both these sectors have to be positioned in the niche export market where fashion, brands, differentiation of products and manufacturing compliance plays a major role.

In this context, SLDF presents a good opportunity for EDB to promote both these sectors on one platform.



Q: What are the main focuses of EDB in sponsoring the event?



A: The main focus is in organising a high profile delegation of buyers/retailers, journalists and designers of apparel, house ware and crafts to create awareness of Sri Lanka’s competitiveness, professionalism, enhanced service, innovation and talent. Further, EDB will organise a craft exhibition to showcase the talents and capabilities of the craft industry.

EDB has obtained the services of 13 designers from Europe and USA who are now working with artisans in selected craft villages in most parts of the country developing an internationally competitive unique novelty range if giftware, crafts collection by incorporating the innovativeness of the designers with the expertise of the local artisans. The collection will be displayed at the Crafts exhibition and Fashion show which will be held parallel to the design fest.



Q: What are the key expectations of the Design Fest?



A: Our main aim is to showcase manufacturing compliances, quality and novelty of Sri Lankan apparel and creative industries to the world. Where apparel is concerned the focus is promoting high value added branded products on fashion and design. This will be a good opportunity to endorse local apparel under the label ‘garment without guilt.’ Our efforts aim to make Sri Lanka an attractive destination and position Sri Lanka at the high end of the international market where sustainable, ethical and green manufacturing plays a major role.

Increasing Sri Lanka’s export earnings and attracting long term business contracts with leading buyers, designers and opinion leaders of the international world is also one of EDB’s key expectations.



 Q: You say that promoting the crafts industry is one of your key aims. Could you give us a background on the crafts industry in Sri Lanka?



A: Sri Lanka’s inherited craftsmanship, cultural diversity and rich natural resources provide the base for a wide range of crafts that satisfy the quality conscience and discerning buyers. The art of local crafts have been spread among an approximate 300, 000 individual craftsmen whose product range includes arts and crafts, household accessories, soft and wooden toys, fashion accessories, furnishing, terra-cotta pots and vases, porcelain figurines, wellness and spa products to name a few.

The diversified raw material base for the products is stone, clay, textile, wood, rush and reed, recycled paper, leather, metal etc. as well as eco friendly products such as elephant dung, water hyacinth, banana fiber, tea refuse, paddy husk, and wild grass.

As a result of a number of development programmes undertaken by the relevant authorities, crafts and giftware for Sri Lanka is now on the climb, combining traditional skills with modern technology.



Q: Is local crafts still known as a dying art and if so what plans does EDB have to develop the sector?



A: Crafts were a dying art sometimes back, but not anymore. In the recent past, crafts manufactured at the cottage level and the craftsmen in the provinces faced a number of challenges such as lack of infrastructure facilities, smallness of the enterprises, lack of proper technology, low productivity, competition from too many enterprises producing similar products, and problems of marketing.

Also little or no exposure to the international marketing requirements was a major constraint hampering the development of the crafts sector in Sri Lanka. Therefore production remained supply driven and traditional in terms of designs, which brought a poor return to the manufacturer.

In this context, crafts and giftware had been identified as an important area to be promoted within the government’s development agenda for the year 2006/2007 under Mahinda Chintanaya. It has also been included in the government budget 2006 to reawaken the crafts industry in Sri Lanka by implementing a specialised gifts wear development programme. The EDB implemented this programme since 2006 with an objective of developing a group of ‘export ready’ SMEs targeting the niche export market and special emphasis on products that have export potential.

EDB has now reached the final stage of the programme. Up to now more than 50 SMEs and seven craft villages have been actively participating in the programme. The talents and capabilities of these SMEs will be showcased to the global audience at the ‘Craft Exhibition.’



Q: What are the craft programmes lined up for SLDF?



A: The craft sector plays a pivotal role in the economic mainstream of the country and is instrumental in absorbing the talents and capabilities of the rural sector into the export efforts of the country.

We have organised for 11 international designers to work in most parts of the country with local artisans. The designers who are from UK, France and USA have been in Sri Lanka for the past two years and have worked with craftsmen in Hapuvilla, Kanthakkudi, Pilimatalawa, Menikhinna, Thalagune, Magalla, Koulara and Marathamunai.

The designers that are working here are Eleanor Glen, Emily Barnard, Lisa Anne Wilkinson, Sow Safiyatou, Christel Bibi Blangsted, Mariska James, Georgina Honour, Karl Newton, Jade Hannam, Juliette Hadland, and Joel Rapp.

The designs they jointly create as well as individual creations by the local craftsmen, will be on show at the Sri Lanka Design Festival’s unique Crafts Village. The Crafts Village will act as both an Exhibition and an Artisan’s Market for the week of the SLDF. Pottery, handloom, masks and several other crafts from around the island will have a presence there.

By creating awareness amongst craftsmen regarding modern design trends and market trends, we are hoping to raise the standard of every craft product, making them competitive on an international scale.

Several workshops such as ‘crafts in contemporary design’ with Prof. Bruce Montgomery, mask painting, Coconut-shell jewellery, Lacquer work and Used plastic bags will be held at the SLSF among other scheduled programmes.



 Q: In respect of creative design manufacturing practices and ethical policies where does Sri Lanka stand now?



A: The industry has been positioned as a socially responsible and preferred destination for apparel sourcing. Sri Lanka is also the only outsourced apparel manufacturing country in Asia which has ratified all 27 International Labour Organisation (ILO) core conventions. It stands out as a reliable source that pays fair wages to its workers while discouraging sweatshops and child labour in its business.

Long term relationships with large, reputed retailers who have established standards of manufacture and compliance have also reinstated this focus on ethical manufacture and an approach to corporate social responsibility that responds and caters to the need and concern of a diverse set of stakeholders. The association with global brands of international repute has not been a mere business transaction but an exercise in maximising the value of wealth creation in society.

On the environmental aspects, local apparel supports many initiatives focused on minimising its impact on nature. Every effort is being made to create sustainable growth by protecting the environment, both at the workplace and in the community. International standards of recycling, effluent treatment and waste management practices are followed to run the operations at optimum environmental efficiency.

Sri Lanka showcases the best of technology in the garment industry, including the world’s first eco-friendly ‘green garment factory.’ The industry has always stressed on product excellence which has established the ‘Made in Sri Lanka’ label as being synonymous with quality, reliability, social and environmental accountability.



Q: Your views and plans for the apparel industry, a key export earner for the country?



A: EDB has identified apparel as a primary focus area for achieving the country’s economic goal of USD four billion by 2015. In order to achieve this target the industry has to widen its marketing focus with high value addition to remain competitive in the international market and position Lanka in the niche market segment. Although we have established ourselves as a quality and reliable supplier of apparel to the world, we have much more to do in the area of fashion and design.

In this aspect EDB has identified key areas for future development of society. That includes messaging and branding to highlight compliance and promotion of ‘garment without guilt,’ carrying out selected promotional campaigns to highlight the industry, organise trade exhibitions and events in Sri Lanka to encourage the development of the sector, implement design and product development programmes and overseas design training for local designers as well as skill development programmes for workers on high tech production systems etc.



Q:  What are the targets for the future?



A: to achieve the growth target of USD 4 billion in export value of garments in 2015 an annual growth rate of 10 per cent is expected. In 2009 the export value from apparel was USD 3.2 billion; this year we hope to take it up to USD 3.5 billion.

EDB is also encouraged by the response of the international customers on local giftware sector. Even though I will not be able to give a particular target for the year, statistics indicate that from January to August , the export value of the giftware sector was USD 10.47 million. For the year 2009 the value stood at USD 18.64 million.