Magnificent Muscat

The Daily FT participated in a familiarisation trip to Muscat, Oman for media and representatives of travel agencies organised by Oman Air in early June. The Sri Lankan tour group was accompanied by Oman Air Country Manager for Sri Lanka Gihan Karunaratne and Hayleys Aviation Director Gerard Victoria. This article will explore the culture of Oman and the places of interest in its capital Muscat including the Al Alam Palace, Port Sultan Qaboos and the Muttrah souk

Text and pix by Malik Gunatilleke

Flying over the port city of Muscat serves as the perfect introduction to the breathtaking beauty of this magnificent city. The colourful contrast of a pearly white city glistening brightly next to the brilliantly blue Arabian Sea and set against the golden West Al Hajar Mountains serves as a stunning metaphor to Muscat’s cultural diversity.

Muscat is the capital of the Sultanate of Oman and is home to a varied group of locals and expats as well as a kaleidoscope of sights, sounds, cuisines and cultures.

From the Gulf to Africa

Originally hailing from a Yemeni valley named Oman, the land’s early inhabitants moved to what was then called Magan in the first century, renaming it Oman upon their arrival. They went on to write for themselves a rich history of dominance in the Gulf region with an empire that included Qatar, Bahrain, the United Arab Emirates, parts of Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Somalia, Baluchistan and most of the northern African coast including Zanzibar – modern day Tanzania.

Much like Sri Lanka, Oman had to deal with the colonisation efforts of the Portuguese, who came to the region in 1507 and stayed till 1650. Portuguese forts are still left standing in some areas of Muscat as testament to their early struggles with European colonisation. The Omanis eventually drove the Portuguese out of their home and followed them to Africa where they helped liberate areas from their European enemies. Parts of the African coast later came under the rule of the Sultanate of Oman and Zanzibar, which was once the financial capital of the empire, only gained autonomy in 1964, later merging with Tanganyika to become Tanzania. Oman’s historical reach across multiple continents has led to its own culture being heavily influenced by Indian and African traditions.

Oman’s current Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said opened the country out to the rest of the region and the world when he overthrew his father in a palace coup in 1970. Following his father’s relatively conservative rule, the Sultan Qaboos shifted the country’s focus onto development and modernisation which over the past few decades, although slow, has reaped great dividends. Its booming tourist industry is symptomatic of the country’s steady liberalisation.

A sea of friendly faces

Oman is more than four times the size of Sri Lanka but has a population of only 4.5 million people, of which almost two million are expatriates. However, contrary to the reputation of some of the other Gulf States, Oman has carved out its own status as being one of the most tolerant and friendly countries in the region. It has been praised as one of the most secure countries in the world while also being named one of the friendliest countries to foreigners.

In fact, coming into the Gulf region for the third time, the most surprising aspect of my first-time visit to Oman was how friendly the locals were. Having heard little, at the time, of the pragmatism and simplicity of Omani people and their culture, it was unexpected to experience such warmth and hospitality on arrival. Its affability didn’t feel like a gimmick geared towards bringing in more revenue through tourism but seemed more of a symptom of what sets it apart from some of its neighbouring states – its progressiveness.

Oman has indeed created its own unique identity in terms of its booming tourism industry while its hospitality is probably rooted in its demographic diversity and its social, religious and cultural tolerance.

The Omani citizenry is mostly (as much as 75%) made up of those of the Ibadi school of Islam with Shiite and Sunni minorities. However, none of the country’s mosques are exclusive to any of the three branches.

The country’s Christian, Hindu and Buddhist presence is almost exclusively made up of foreign workers although churches and Hindu temples are allowed to operate without obstruction. In fact, one of Muscat’s most famous Hindu temples is over a hundred years old. The country prohibits religious discrimination and grants great freedom to practice religious rites as long as it does not disrupt public order. These freedoms in turn have resulted in a thriving, multi-cultural populace that is tolerant and friendly to all who visit.

Best times to visit

Although Oman, during the summer, can reach temperatures of up to 50 degrees, the tourist season between October and April can be quite pleasant. Temperatures can be as low as 15 degrees during the winter.

Some areas, like Salalah towards the south, are quite cool as it shares a marine border with the Indian Ocean. Even in the summer it rains for three months which gives it a much greener appearance than Muscat. Salalah has two mountains, one of which is Jebel Shams or the Mountain of the Sun, which is the highest peak in the Gulf, measuring over 3000 metres. Even in the summer, temperatures hover around the 25-degree mark while in the winter there is occasional snowfall.

Muscat’s ports

The tour around Muscat city took us to several places of interest including the Muscat Harbour, known locally as Port Sultan Qaboos, which now serves as a tourist attraction and a cruise ship port. It is the largest port in the country and only seized its commercial operations in 2014.

Many yachts and cruise ships were docked and could be seen on the horizon of Muscat’s cyan-shaded waters but none as prominent as the Omani Sultan’s private luxury yacht – Al Said – in all its glory. Like a scorned lover, unobtrusively docked right beside this marvellous ship was what we were informed was the Sultan’s former yacht. While the Sultan’s previous yacht was replaced by the world’s fourth longest yacht, it still remained in the port, almost as a premonition of Al Said’s impending fate, as the tour guide nonchalantly informed us that the Sultan had commissioned yet another yacht.

The Marina Bandar Al Rowdha is also a breathtaking sight while travelling along the coast, as the road winds around its mountainous cover slowly revealing a stunningly blue ocean dotted with shimmering white yachts and boats. The marina was opened in 1996, has wet and dry berths, a fully-licensed restaurant, a bar and swimming pool.

The Al Dhalam souk

The tour group was then taken to the traditional market or ‘souk’ situated in the Muttrah District of Muscat, adjacent to the harbour. The souk, which is possibly one of the oldest functioning marketplaces in the region, is traditionally known as ‘Al Dhalam’ – the Arabic word for darkness.

It got its reputation for darkness because of how very little sunlight seeped onto the streets of the souk during the day, owing to the congestion of stalls, vendors and shoppers. However, in modern times, the streets are illuminated by the glow of hundreds of traditional lamps and lanterns displayed on the outer sheds of an endless sea of stalls while the sweet fragrance of frankincense wafts through its bustling corridors.

The narrow streets of the souk weave a web around the bazaar area and the local vendors market an array of traditional and modern consumer goods. Garments, traditional foodstuff, trinkets, shisha pipes, exotic cloth, lanterns, postcards and jewellery are just some of the dizzying selection of eye-catching wares displayed for sale at the Al Dhalam. It is quite easy to get lost down its winding roads but getting guidance back to the entrance of the souk is simple with assistance from the English-speaking vendors.

The traditional souk is also surrounded by more modern shopping complexes that offer more contemporary goods. The market is opened from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and again from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.

The Al Alam Palace and the Grand Mosque

We also visited the Al Alam Palace, which is the ceremonial palace of Sultan Qaboos; Al Alam means the ‘The Flag’ in Arabic. The palace has a history of over 200 years. Built by Imam Sultan bin Ahmed, a direct ancestor of the current Sultan, the palace was rebuilt as a royal residence in 1972. Although visitors are not allowed into the palace, you can walk along its adjoining plaza and freely take photographs of the gold and blue marvel which proudly flies the country’s flag at its summit. Now, the palace is mostly used for receiving the distinguished guests of Oman.

Meanwhile, looming menacingly over the palace from either side are two 16th century Portuguese forts named Al-Mirani and Al-Jalali. Now, standing in memory of the Omanis’ victory over the colonial forces, the two forts have been reclaimed as important historical sites.

Meanwhile, Oman’s religious centre, which is the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, can also be found in the capital city of Muscat and can accommodate up to 20,000 worshippers within its premises. The construction for this magnificent mosque began in 1995 and took six years to complete. Its design is considered to be contemporary Islamic and it holds the world’s second largest hand-woven carpet which covers the floors of the prayer hall. It is also adorned with a breathtakingly beautiful 14m-tall chandelier made in Italy.

Cuisine

Omani cuisine is deeply influence by its Indian and African roots. Many of their meals and dishes are rice based; these include Kabuli (originally an Afghan dish) and Biriyani. Their traditional preparations also use Indian spices as well as African techniques. Halwa is a dessert made from cardamom, nuts and brown sugar while Harees is another popular dish which mixes wheat with meat. Shuwaa is also a traditional meal eaten during festivals. Its preparation is a communal activity in which a pit is dug in the ground and used as an oven to cook goat meat which is flavoured with spices before being wrapped in sacks made of dried leaves and placed back in the oven.

The most famous of the food items are its world-famous dates. Being one of the country’s most lucrative agricultural export products, Omani dates are a must-try when visiting. It is even part of traditional Omani hospitality, as guests are greeted with the scent of frankincense, dates and Kahwa – Omani coffee mixed with cardamom powder.

Muscat by night

Along with the traditional is Oman’s buzzing nightlife. Unlike some of the other states in the region, Oman’s relaxed laws on nightclubs, pubs and bars have given way to a vibrant and active city by night. While some hotels still opt not to serve alcohol to customers, many of the dining establishments have received permission to serve alcoholic beverages.

Oman has several cinemas and the Royal Opera House Muscat is the country’s premier venue for musical and other performance arts. Also built on the order of the current Sultan, the opera house can seat around 1,100 people and has a concert theatre, auditorium, market, gardens, restaurants and an art centre.

Muscat is fast-becoming a must-visit destination on travellers’ wish lists and offers some of the most beautiful scenery as well as a unique and fascinating culture to its visitors. Deeply entrenched in its own rich history and its uniquely friendly outlook, Oman is one of the most exciting destinations to visit in the region as well as the world.